Home Server Rooms? 464
Tuzanor
writes "I've got a buddy moving into a brand new house. Being
geeks, we've decided to wire the house with a large home network.
While this story
took care of wiring the house, we need to figure out how to create a
well set up server room. We'll be having both towers and rack mounted
computers as well as various switches, UPSes, etc. Also, we figure
this room will get warm, even in winter. How may we cool it while
still keeping the rest of the house toasty warm on a cold
Canadian night (without opening a window)"
ceiling vent (Score:2, Informative)
What I did... (Score:4, Informative)
I tore out all of the old shelves, and picked up a bunch of nicer ones from Revy to hold my main servers and my (still nonfunctional) cluster, and screwed them into one of the longer walls. Opposite that, I used some of the old shelves to
make a small workbench, and I left room to add 2 or 3 racks (not that I'll ever need that much space) at a later date. It works really well, and because it used to be a pantry, and 2 of the walls are bare concrete, as is the floor, its stays down right COLD in there, even with 10 or so boxes going.
Cooling (Score:1, Informative)
-=Gonzotek=-
Decentralized A/C (Score:2, Informative)
electricity (Score:4, Informative)
Next, don't be a cooling idiot. If it's cold outside and your server room is hot, use the server room to warm the rest of the house. Air circulation. Central placement of server room in basement.
Couple of ways... (Score:2, Informative)
There are a few of ways to do it:
1) Shut off the incoming heating vents to the room in the Winter. Then reopen them in the summer when you don't heat your house, or when you have the AC on.
2) Make sure any outgoing vents are open so that air from the room is circulated out.
3) Fans in the window (in case the room really gets hot.)
4) Thermostat controlled fans or AC unit in the window.
Take care,
Brian
--
We are almost out of Free Palm Pilots... [assortedinternet.com]
--
Multi-zone Heating/Cooling... (Score:5, Informative)
Bomb shelter (Score:3, Informative)
950sq. feet, 13 PCs... (Score:5, Informative)
First thing is: Open a goddamn window. Block vents if you're worried about screwing up your heating/cooling bill. Get a little Window AC for summertime - not that you're going to get 100 F summer days in Canada, but just in case you need it. The windows in my apartment building are extra-wide, so I have two box fans sitting side-by-side in my window, one blowing air in, the other blowing out.
Scrounge a rack if you have to - the kind musicians use is cheaper than the ones computer people pay for. I pulled mine out of a dumpster at an Exodus NOC. I have a number of the identical tower cases - so I stacked them at the bottom of the rack, and started the rackmount stuff I have (a disk array, a catalyst 5005, KVM, and big ol' UPS) above that.
Rack-mount stuff costs too much money but I love having everything in one place. I'll bet wooden shelves would be just fine if I didn't have stuff that fit inside the rack already.
A $30 "Hobby" labelmaker works great for keeping cables straight. That and a whole bunch of chicken-straps (cable ties) and variety of velcro implements should be considered essential.
Noise is a big problem for me. I lined the inside of some of my louder PCs with dynamat and carpet scraps, but that doesn't help with all the whiny SCSI disks. Not much I can say there. Maybe another ask Slashdot? In the past I wouldn't consider carpet in an area with lots of computers, but since I'm at home, I'm thinking maybe the noise-deadening features of a good, thick carpet might be a good thing.
I don't pay for electricity (obviously!). I have no idea how much all this stuff costs to run. All my machines are on a UPS, though, which is handy. $99 500VA generic units are better than nothing at all. There's a pretty big electrical load in my tiny little apartment, but I'm lucky in that my computer room has, for some reason, outlets on three different circuits. I should think that having outlets on two circuits would be a minimum, particularly if you're in an apartment or older home, where tripping a breaker is either easier or more likely than a new home.
Use cool computers? (Score:3, Informative)
If you plan ahead, you ought to be able to set up with all the gear you need, without using too much power/making too much heat.
Start with one big Linux server. Equip it with a ridiculous amount of RAID storage: how about 3 or 4 80 GB drives in a RAID 5 configuration; that's 160 GB or 240 GB right there. Use a 2-processor SMP Socket A motherboard, and a couple of Athlon MP chips. (When the
Now I assume you want some number of other computers for various purposes. At a minimum you want one firewall. If you want a server exposed to the net you really want two firewalls, with the net server behind one and your really big Linux server behind both firewalls (and the second one should be really locked down!). For these extra computers, you ought to look at using the Shuttle SV24 [shuttleonline.com], with a VIA C3 [via.com.tw] chip. The SV24 has little expansion capability, so it only has a little power supply, so it only makes a little heat. The C3 dissipates about as much power as a night light ( 7 Watts) typical and 11 Watts max according to the Via web site. You don't even need a fan on the heatsink: a simple passive heatsink is enough for a C3! For firewall use, put an extra net card in the single PCI slot on the SV24.
Because Linux can boot off a floppy (try that with Windows XP Professional Server sometime) you can set up the SV24 boxes with just a floppy and a whole lot of memory. If you can get a net boot working with the built-in 100 Mbps Ethernet, you don't even need the floppy.
Of course your personal workstation/gaming boxes can run hot with fast CPUs and fast 3D graphics cards and such, but those probably won't be in the server room!
Unless you are planning to invest in a render farm or Beowulf cluster, you should be able to get everything you need running, and it shouldn't get too hot.
steveha
Self Contained (Score:3, Informative)
Heat, Dust & Noise (Score:5, Informative)
Unless the room is broom-closet sized, or you got a lot of equipment (more than 5 or 6 Athlon
Perhaps some creativity may help too. Perhaps some of the systems doesn't need to run 24/7.
Some BIOS's have an internal timer and calender, so you can shutdown the systems when likely not in use.
WoL (Wake on LAN) to remote boot, suspend or shutdown systems can be nice too (almost all nics and mobos support WoL nowadays).
Hook it up with some X10 gadgets and a sensor, so that the system(s) boot, if you go near your bedroom console at night, or you alarm clock goes of in the morning, or if you start your coffe machine after 2 o'clock in the night, or...
Other power management features may be present in the OS, so you can suspend the entire system, or just the harddisks, by a cron
Not only will you save some money, but the room will run cooler too.
And unless you run your own DNS, mailserver, etc, then a shut down firewall
Dust
This is my nemesis at the moment, our server room is in a basement, with an untreated cement floor.
I suspect our DAT and some other stuff, died because of the cement dust (ok, so DATs always break down after a short while, but..). Anyway, fans and PSU's seems like dustmagnets, which again leads to worse internal component cooling, so a clean room, without carpets is my recommendation.
Noise
All your equipment will make an infernal noise, and a generally bad indoor clima in the room. Of course, people have very individual sensitivity to this, but personally I prefer to hack outside the serverroom.
I final note, if you run a Linux box, then I can only recommend netsaint, from www.netsaint.org.
It is a very flexible, very reliable monitoring system. Since it checks services with plugins, it is easely extensible to include eg. room temperature measurement. Netsaint is simply the best of the pack.
Oh, a minor thing more; we have never regrettet our small investment in a handheld labeling machine. A small label saying "Cross-over" on a Cat cable or "UPS" on a power cord, saves a lot of trouble.
Re:ceiling vent (Score:2, Informative)
Then in the summer seal up the cold air return and use AC.
In my old house I kept the computer room closed off from the rest of the house. In the middel of the winter the computers kept the room nice and warm. In the summer the house was always nice and cool without AC but here it dosn't get very hot at all.
Re:950sq. feet, 13 PCs... (Score:0, Informative)
Each SilentDrive requires a 5.25" bay, so if you're using a real hotswap RAID enclosure, rackmount or otherwise, the SilentDrive is not an option. In that case, I'd invest in a rack cabinet and glue acoustic foam tiles over the entire surface. ;-)
Have ideas & professional experience (Score:5, Informative)
There are two primary issues that you need to be concerned about - heat removal and electricity. Both of these should be designed into consideration for the room to begin with. Since your building the house, you have an opportunity to deal with these properly to begin with. This should save you thousands of dollars vs trying to hodgepodge things together after the fact.
The first consideration is to make sure that you have an ample supply of electricity to the room. This involves more than just having a bunch of outlets all over the place. The first thing that you MUST do is to have adequate gauge electrical wire running to the room from your circuit box (make sure circuit breakers are adeqaute as well). If this isn't adequate, you won't pass inspection. You can't use the same gauge wire that you can get away in the rest of the house. You need a lower number gauge, and more of it. The primary consequences of failing to do this will be an inability to run everything at once without tripping a circuit breaker. I recommend having at least two dedicated runs of wire to the server room. Make sure their breakers are labeled and control nothing else. Also have a dedicated smoke detector hardwired for this room (the insurance company will like / require this and it will help for your safety as well.
There are also code issues here. If the wiring is inadequate and your house burns down from this (circuit breakers can fail to trip) your insurance company won't pay you a dime. If the electrician tells you not to worry about this, things will be fine, tell him to do it anyways. Follow up on this by physically verifying that the gauge is different. Remember the electrician who does your house is judging by the standard of what the typical urban household needs. It is important to remind him that this is not the typical urban house. If done during construction the cost will be minimal, if done after construction (drywall) the cost will be thousands of dollars. Also consider having one or two 220 volt outlets installed during this time. If you need to install a room air conditioner for your server room you'll need this. You'll also likely want a single heavy duty UPS for all of the equipment vs several smaller ones. Such a UPS will also require 220 Volt power. All of this will probably not add more than $200 if it is done before drywall goes up and while the electrician is on site anyways. One other thought here, make sure said wire gauge differences are documented and signed by the electrician, and then videotape everything before the drywall goes up.
Now that you have power in place you'll want to examine heat removal issues. If you put this in a basement, it will naturally be about 10f cooler. This can be used to your advantage. Keeping this room in the center of the house will also help keep it cooler / warmer for less costs. Keep in mind that the standard home AC unit will not be sufficient to cool such a room. Talk to the HVAC contractor and start by getting dedicated ducts that go to this room only (not a feed from another duct). Tell them what the room while be used for and they can help out, it's something that is pretty common for any contractor that also does commercial work (avoid HVAC contractors that only do residential work like the plague). It will also help if the room has a higher than average ceiling (give the heat somewhere to go) and a ceiling fan to help pull hot air up. You also want to keep the run (length of duct from AC unit to room) as absolutely short as you can get away with.
Consider getting a purpose built building interior air conditioner for the room. They cost about a grand, but don't have to have dedicated ductwork available to them. They are also far cheaper than failed components if you get a sudden hot day that overwhelms your air conditioner. Remember that standard air conditioners are sized to handle not the hottest days in your locality but a point that is 85% - 90% equivalent to the hottest days (there are good reasons for this, but I'd be getting off topic). In other words, don't count on the home AC to handle this room. It's not just a matter of being comfortable, it's a matter of avoiding replacing failed hardware that got too warm. This always ends up costing more than it would cost to do it right in the first place.
Now you can deal with the smaller issues. Make sure you have lots and lots of 4 bang outlets. Also make sure that you have indirect lighting in the room. It may be worthwhile to install some foam for noise absorption while your at it. It's not very expensive and it can make a big difference. You also want to make sure the floor is wood, tile or concrete. Avoid carpet that can create static electricity. Make sure you have your wiring coming to the room through PVC or steel conduit. Make sure the access point isn't going to be blocked. From here I would advise to go ahead and buy a rack. It will save lots of space, the standard is there for many things, and it will make things look much nicer. You can also set up a proper patch panel this way.
Just my 2 and a half cents worth, would add more but this is long as is.
Location of the cabling runs (Score:3, Informative)
So when you are running new cables, or tracing faults or whatever, you aren't cramped down by the pitch of the roof.
I've done this, and while it is *never* fun stuffing around with cables in a roof space, at least if its in the center of the house you can stand up and stretch.
regards,
Duncan
STEN shelving units (Score:3, Informative)
I've got a setup like this in my basement and it's very nice -- attractive and functional.
Re:Have ideas & professional experience (Score:2, Informative)
Obviously either this guy doesn't have much experience with insurance companies or his agent is somehow godlike.
If a fire is caused because you have a greater load than the circut is coded to handle, it don't matter about the breaker. You break code, you lose with insurance. It's not one reason vs. another; it's your fault cuz of this one thing so the rest is moot, we don't have to pay.
Remember, this is an industry that believes keeping your settlement in their own bank account for even 1 extra day (spread this over all pending claims and you have REAL money) is worthwhile and encouraged.
My network.. (Score:2, Informative)
I have a small "server room" in my house, which includes 2 servers, 1 router and the cable modem.
The heat isn't really much of an issue..just get a few good fans in the servers and you're set. I have 2 fans in each of mine. The room isn't that hot at all.
All the wiring then goes out the ceiling, through the attic and then I dropped down 3 jacks to each room to plug up to the network.