Wall-Mounting 1U Devices Without a Rack?

c640180 asks: "I need to figure out a way to mount a 1U enclosure in a small closet that doesn't have a relay rack or anything similar. Is there such a thing as a set of right angle brackets that would provide me with 19" wide screw holes so that I could mount the device vertically (so that the screws would be pointing down)? how do other folks who don't have real network closets mount real networking hardware?"

Here's a hint

[Anonymous Coward]

Stop stealing stuff from work. There's a reason why there's consumer-level equipment. Hint: It fits on the wall.

Re:Here's a hint

[jo42]

You're just being envious. I picked up a couple of new Dell 350's (1U) from a local asset recovery shop for $250 ea. Could of picked up a quad 1.8 GHz Xeon setup with 4GB of RAM and about 700GB of storage for around $10K, but my spare change pocket was empty.

Boy, this is an easy one.

[DNAGuy]

I'm sure your local building center could help you out. Alternatively, you may wish to contact a music store. They may be able to point you at a used 19" "road case" which is often appropriate.

One caveat. If you plan to mount your device with the front panel facing up as you describe, monitor the temperature of the unit for the first little while. 1U devices are often passively cooled and may require the correct orientation in order to work properly.

Re:Boy, this is an easy one.

[MrResistor]

While these are both excellent suggestions, I would be a little wary of a road case. They're designed to protect equipment from shipping/roadies, and may not have adequate airflow. As a source of bracketry, though, they're an excellent choice.

I think I would probably hit the hardware store first, though. It'll likely be cheaper, and there will be a guy there who will tell you exactly what you need to do (asuming you adequately explain the problem to him). I've found that hardware store employees are some of the most helpful people in the world.

Re:Boy, this is an easy one.

[adolf]

Airflow? He's mounting a single 1U box. And even if he wanted more, it is usually exceedingly difficult to find road cases in excess of 12U. Which just isn't very much equipment.

Remember, the intended purpose of these racks is not just for the shipping of equipment, but the use of it. Sensitive analog (and increasingly, digital) electronics upon which multi-million dollar shows (and hundreds of thousands of potentially-angry people) are relying on.

This type of stuff generally makes a lot more heat than a couple of PCs. And it's sitting in direct sunlight on a 105 degree day...that is, unless it's getting rained on.

Somehow, airflow seems to be OK for these folks. And they take it at least as seriously as any of you computer kids.

Low tech.

[Mark Imbriaco]

How about a shelf? Where I used to work we installed all the systems in our datacenters on shelves rather than screwing them directly into the racks simply because it saved time when it was necessary to get into thos systems or to move/replace them. No reason why you couldn't just stik it on a shelf in your closet. If you don't have an appropriate one already there, a 2x4 and a piece of plywood or MDF should do nicely as the raw materials to make your own.

Re:Low tech.

[bill_mcgonigle]

There is some rack gear that is intended to be ventilated through the bottom, perforated cases and such. This made pretty good sense if you had an elevated floor under positive pressure and a fan blowing AC up through the rack. Most newer stuff seems to rely on big fans ventilating front-to-back.

Just check carefully before you block the bottom by putting it on a solid shelf. Wire shelves would be a decent workaround.

Re:Low tech.

[JediTrainer]

Where I used to work we installed all the systems in our datacenters on shelves rather than screwing them directly into the racks simply because it saved time when it was necessary to get into thos systems or to move/replace them.

Has nobody at your work thought of using a good set of rails? In our server room, it's a piece of cake to slide out a machine and work on it (you can pop the case off while it's still in the rack), or press a couple of levers and the guards snap out, letting you pull the machine out of the rack entirely.

This is MUCH easier and cleaner than using shelves.

Beware of Fire Hazards!!!

[Anonymous Coward]

Think long and hard before you start running an electrical device 24X7 in a wooden closet that hasn't been fire-proofed.

That said, DataTel/MiddleAtlantic has a nice, affordable series of wall mount racks [the "WM" series]:

http://www.middleatlantic.com/specs/96_291.pdf [middleatlantic.com]
[PDF FILE]

Syndat, out of Oklahoma, is a retailer who will mail them to you [the "WM" series isn't listed on their website, but they do carry it - ask a salesman]:

http://www.syndat.com [syndat.com]

Consider convection.

[chrestomanci]

Rack mounted equipment will be designed to work horizontally, and often on the limits of heat dissipation (because everything is packed in tight).

If you turn things sideways, the convection currents that the manufacturer allowed for in the design will flow the wrong way and may not provide enough cooling.

For most things you can probably fix this by adding another fan or three, but if you have a CPU that is cooled by a heat pipe setup, it will not work at all. Heat pipes must be the correct way round to work at all, otherwise you will kill your expensive server CPU quite quickly.

Also, consider things like tray loading CD-ROM drives, which may be inconvenient to use the wrong way round, though you probably don't plan on using it very much.

Hope this helps.

Build a rack

[Y Ddraig Goch]

Why not build your own rack out of a couple of 2x4's?

Ask Slashdot

[GigsVT]

I submitted this to Ask Slashdot earlier, it's been accepted but not posted yet:

I have these small devices holding my computer case on. Basically they are small pegs made out of metal, with a small cap or "head" on top. The cap has a small indention that looks like a plus (+) sign. It appears you are supposed to rotate them to extract them and remove the case. My question is, is there a tool of some sort to extract these metal pegs? TIA.

Re:Ask Slashdot

[Ratface]

Good question!

I think that the tool you are looking for is called a hammer. If you find that using the hammer doesn't help, you may want to also try and track down a cold chisel. That should definitely help you remove those stubborn pegs!

If all else fails, you can use a drill with a metal boring bit. Be sure to use a bit with a diameter several times that of the pegs, or you may risk leaving parts of the peg in place. Drilling to a depth of at least 10cm should ensure that the job is done thoroughly. ;-)

Re:Ask Slashdot

[Basje]

+3 _informative_? That's even funnier than the post itself. Heck, it's hilarious.

Re:Ask Slashdot

[Hubert_Shrump]

Actually, I have some experience with this, step aside.

What he's describing is actually called a "plug", which is where power enters the cabinet.

I've found them rather hard to pull out without the right equipment, but then I found something that did the trick: parallel pliers.

HTH.

Should be pretty simple

[silicon_synapse]

Most rackmount brackets I've seen will allow you to unscrew and rotate them 90 degrees so you can mount the device flush to the wall. If you can't do that, run down to Lowe's or Home Depot and get a couple of 90 degree angle brackets. Attach them to the wall spaced properly, hang the equipment on them, and screw it down. If stud spacing doesn't allow the proper spacing, attach a strip of wood to the studs then attach the brackets to the wood.

Re:Should be pretty simple

[Reece400]

I have one of these, from a local store that closed,, it came along with other things, i never really thought of it's use until now though, i'm sure you could easily make some brakets that do the same thing,,,

Reece,

Sideways Panel Mount

[Rope_a_Dope]

A Sideways Panel Mount is what you're looking for.

Just search Google, and you'll find a ton. I've used both an SPM2 (2U Sideways Panel Mount), and an SPM4 (4U).

You can use them to mount facing up or sideways, but I prefer sideways, as it's usually easier to read the displays.

Here are a few:

http://www.rackmountsolutions.net/WM_SPM.asp [rackmountsolutions.net]
http://www.middleatlantic.com/dcm/wall/spm.htm [middleatlantic.com]

Covered several times before

[kawika]

Here [slashdot.org], here [slashdot.org], and here [slashdot.org]. There may be others but that was my quick search of Slashdot. Several good DIY solutions in there.

19" wide screw holes

[Hungus]

Damn those are big screws!

Dexion!

[Bazman]

Fantastic stuff. Meccano for grown ups. People have built entire staircases out of it. We just built ten little shelves to fit behind desks in our new lab to hide the little Wyse Xterms we bought. I'm very tempted to build a mini-rack out of it for some of our other gear.

A Howto Here [dexion.co.uk]

Re:Dexion!

[LordNimon]

Any idea where I can this stuff in the USA? I've searched Dexion's web site, I've searched their affiliates' web sites, and I've even googled.

use this as inspiration

[BigBir3d]

small wall mounted rack [yzedf.com]

Very easy.

[Atrapose]

Wall mountable 1U to 4U racks from Cablewholesale.com [cablewholesale.com]

You probably won't find a cheaper price than that, either.

Cheers

Re:Very easy.

[Max Coffee]

Just make sure to take a look at the pictures. These are racks for patch panels, which are not very deep. You'll need to modify them somewhat to get the depth you'll need for a server. So, you still need to be handy, although this could be a good start.

This is an "Ask Slashdot"

[bzant]

'Nuff said

Buy cheap racks from Universities

[Maller]

If if you have a university in your area, contact both their compsci and IT departments. Sometimes they are not that pretty, but they just sit in my basement and a closet of my computer room anyway.

Look at the included mounting hardware

[red_dragon]

Take a look at the mounting brackets included with your kit, if any, along with the screwholes on the sides of the case. Sometimes, 1U-size devices are designed so that all you have to do is change where you place the brackets relative to the enclosure. E.g., Cisco 1U-size routers like the 2500 and 2600 series include mounting brackets that can also be used as wall-mounting straps, and is well documented in the installation manuals. Also, as noted above, you should note the ventilation characteristics of your hardware; if it has a fan, make sure that the exhaust points up (also noted in Cisco's documentation).

This might help. [cisco.com]

DIY - bare rack rails

[Anonymous Coward]

rack rails [musiciansfriend.com]

Since music gear also uses standard 19" racks, a big music store will have all sorts of stuff you can probably adapt. If you search for "rack rails" on musician's friend's site above, there are all sorts of products. You can also find open frame rack kits, desktop rackmounts, etc. All you have to do is figure out how to mount them.

WindowsXP

[Glonoinha]

Just go in to work and explain that the existing racks are not supported by WindowsXP. They will buy new racks and you can *cough* dispose of the obsolete ones.

The Answer.

[cybermace5]

Since you seem to be incapable of sawing a 2x4 into a 20" wide chunk, buying two standard angle brackets for a few cents each, and screwing it together like a real man....

I suggest lots of duct tape.

What's happening to survival skills anyway. Any person with half a clue should be able to work up some decent bracketry. I build what I need all the time. I'm almost done with a workbench I need; portable, legs store underneath and it rolls on casters, with a storage space inside, power supply, lighting, etc.,.

When you go buy your duct tape, glance into the hardware section and notice various things called "saws" and "hammers" and "drills". They are your friends. Use them.

Standard cheap shelf brackets

[skinfitz]

I just bought some book shelf brackets yesterday - they could be used to hold 1U or even 2U rackmount kit safely. Cost me under £10 for two wall mounts and the brackets.

Depends on what kit you want to mount of course - I cant see a fridge working well on it's side [canford.co.uk]

strapping

[n9hmg]

hardware straping material is a roll of steel tape with holes in it. screw it into two studs nearest 19 inches apart, and leave enough hangdown to swing out or in to the correct spacing. A 1/4 twist lines them up on the screwholes on the front of the unit. Tools required - screwdriver and soemthing to cut the strap (hands work - flex at a bolthole until it breaks). Total cost, sstraps and lag screws (i assume you already have the machine screws to go into the unit) - $1.5 US.
One caveat: some equipment has fans at the back, blowing out. Hanging down, convection will be fighting this action. You might want to cut and reverse the wires to the fans, if that's the case. Oh, and make sure the heat doesn't stay in that closet, or you are likely to lose the system, and maybe much more.

Re:strapping

[Student_Tech]

Strapping tape, if it is what I think it is, is also called plumbers tape, and is sometimes used to hook up the pull thing on your sink so you can open and close the drain in the bottom of the sink.
We used some of this with the metal strapping that came with our Chimney Mount (18")Sattalite kit because they only had it good for chimneys 18 feet around and ours was 26 feet. (Drilled into the Metal strapping tape that came into kit with 2 holes on each end so it wouldn't use the bolt as a pivot and break.) Its been up for over a year and still hasn't fallen off the chimney. (Installed Aug 2001) (and yes the dish is sitting on it).

Ductape

[aliusblank]

ductape.. lots of ductape