Removing Cross-Threaded Screws from Hardware? 58
TeaDaemon asks: "I currently have an expensive (dual CPU) motherboard mounted in a rack case. One of the mounting screws is cross-threaded, preventing me from removing the board. The case is designed to prevent access to the back of the risers, so that's not an option. Does anyone have experience with this sort of problem? Can anyone suggest a reliable way of removing said screw without damaging the board or any of it's components? The screw is next to the PCI slots, and has a couple of capacitors and ICs near by. Any help would be greatly appreciated."
LH drill bits. (Score:4, Informative)
Re:LH drill bits. (Score:2)
Actually, I'd advise getting the 10-piece set [sears.com], but since the 3-piece set is only $20, you should be set. The drill-out things are easier to use
holy christ (Score:4, Funny)
Unfortunately, I've been sitting here with my jaw slack in stunned silence ever since it appeared. I keep staring at the screen, and it stubbornly persists in saying "Ask Slashdot," when I know, KNOW, that it really says "The Home Depot."
"Dear Slashdot, I cross-threaded a screw. What should I do?"
"Dear Slashdot, my toilet is backed up. What should I do?"
"Dear Slashdot, my grass is too tall. What should I do?"
"Dear Slashdot, my cat wants something, and I don't know what. What should I do?"
It's the end times, people. Repent and be saved while you still can, 'cause shit like this MUST be one of the signs of the pockyclipse.
Re:holy christ (Score:2)
Enjoy!
Small drill bit. (Score:4, Interesting)
Be very slow, very careful and try every so often to see if you can yank out the screw w/o killing the board.
Slow yes, but it'd work.
Drill it out (Score:5, Informative)
The obvious answer is to drill it out. Since you'll want to be a little careful, you should probably start with an extremely small bit and drill a pinhole into it first, and then work up the bit sizes one by one until the head pretty much falls off the screw. It will destroy both the screw and the mount, but they were crossthreaded anyways.
The obvious issue is of course metal shavings. A small amount of cutting fluid on the bits (or probably any liquid, maybe wd-40) will help to a small degree to keep the shavings from flying around as much (they'll tend to travel up the grooves in the bit instead). More importantly - mask things off. Cut a small 3/4" or so square hole in the center of a large peice of paper. Cover the hole in masking tape. Place the taped hole over the screw, taping the hole down all around it - then cut the circle of tape off the head of the screw where you'll be drilling. You should be able to keep the shavings on the peice of paper instead of on the motherboard shorting out little pins and things.
Drill once, then use a screw extractor (Score:5, Informative)
I use them all the time when working on my car. It'll take alot less time and have the added benefit of producing alot less shavings.
Plus it's an excuse to buy more tools!
Here is a page that describes the use of a screw extractor if you aren't familiar with them:
http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/screw_e
Re:Drill once, then use a screw extractor (Score:1)
Re:Drill it out (Score:2)
I'm not sure what the shavings will be made out of, but you might consider placing a small magnet right next to where you are drilling so that the shavings will stick to it, rather than falling down into recesses in the board. Might work or it might not. Just a suggestion.
Re:Drill it out --- Mod up as FUNNY (Score:2, Insightful)
Re:Drill it out (Score:1)
Re:Drill it out (Score:2)
Re:Drill it out (Score:1)
Re:Drill it out (Score:3, Informative)
Re:Drill it out (Score:2)
Re:Drill it out (Score:2, Interesting)
Static electricity is p
Re:Drill it out (Score:2)
As for the metal bits sticking and resisting vaccuuming after the drilling is done, they probably will. Somehow they tend to get magnetized by the drilling.
Re:Drill it out (Score:1)
I forgot about the magnetization. Steel can be magnetized by stroking. Apparently the magnetic domains can be aligned by physical manipulation.
Re:Drill it out (metal shavings) (Score:3, Informative)
Put the cloth on the motherboard, with the hole centered on the screw. Press it down so that the cloth is below the level of the screw. Drill away, using increasingly larger bits. When removing the cloth, put your finger on the hole. With the other hand, pick up the edges of the cloth, using your finger to seal the hole.
Good Luck
The mechanic's friend (Score:2)
One word: Vise-Grip [vise-griptool.com]. If you can get a purchase on the head, you're home free.
If brute force don't work, you ain't using enough of it.
Re:The mechanic's friend (Score:5, Interesting)
I had considered the Vise-Grip method, but even the needle-nosed models were still a bit bulky for that particular tight spot.
Re:The mechanic's friend (Score:2, Informative)
Drill it (Score:1)
Zen (Score:2)
This question posed in "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" [amazon.com]. You have what the author would call "stuckness."
Re:Zen (Score:5, Insightful)
Excellent book, every programmer should read it. At least to be able to laugh when their boss uses the word "Quality". :)
'ask hardware store'....or try this... (Score:5, Insightful)
More likely you need a drill with a bit extractor kit [eastwoodco.com].
Not really sure what specifics you're dealing with, but just go into a real hardware store (not a harware shopping mall like home depot) and ask the guy (or girl!) with the most nicks and scars on his hands. They could probably do it with a swiss army knife.
~a
Just a thought, might work, might not (Score:5, Interesting)
Here's the idea: using the moto-tool, drill a hole in the TOP of the safety cap just big enough for the bit to pass thru. Also drill a hole in the side of the cap you can attach the vacuum cleaner wand to with the adhesive tape.
Now here's how to use it: turn the vacuum cleaner on and place your fashioned hood over the screw. The suction may keep it in place, or you may need a helper or duct tape. Now stick your moto-tool in the top of the hood and grind away. Hopefully, the vacuum cleaner will suck away the filings well enough to prevent damage to the motherboard.
Here's another thought: if you can access the edge of the motherboard, you might be able to get a hacksaw blade between the mobo and the case and cut the offending standoff off.
Screw Extractor (Score:5, Informative)
Re:Screw Extractor (Score:1)
Re:Screw Extractor (Score:5, Funny)
For instance, the space shuttle actually doesn't rise off the pad until some explosive charges shear some bolts that let it come free of the ground.
The same technique should be applied here.
Thank you.
It's a complicated process, but it should work... (Score:5, Funny)
One tube of KY Jelly
One large drill press
One buffalo - live or stuffed, preferably stuffed, for safety's sake
One seven layer burrito
Two female midgets, preferably with experience in adult films
One hand drill or dremmel moto-tool
One 1-2 mm drill bit
3.25 pounds of hashish
One set of rubber sheets
What to do:
Use the hand drill or dremmel coupled with the small bit to drill the center of the screw away. Next, gather the sex jelly, drill press, buffalo, seven layer burrito, midgets, hash, and sheets and have fun celebrating your newly freed motherboard.
Re:Obvious (Score:1)
The obvious and simplest method (Score:5, Funny)
Find the idiot who cross-threaded the screw to begin with, and explain to them that their life depends on their ability to remove that screw without damaging the motherboard.
Then leave them alone while they solve the problem for you. This is a forward-looking solution, as it not only fixes the current problem but also reduces the likelihood of future problems.
Re:The obvious and simplest method (Score:2, Funny)
Who do you think posted the question to Ask Slashdot in the first place?
Cross-threaded, or Stripped? (Score:5, Insightful)
What the poster may mean is that the screw head itself is stripped out. Most of the suggestions above seem to relate to drilling out a stripped screw head.
I said "usually", above. Sometimes, if it's cross-threaded, then when you try to unscrew it, you end up turning the screw and the standoff, and unscrewing the standoff from the screw on the other end. If the other-end screw is (or gets) loose, all three turn freely, and you get nowhere. Even drilling might not help, because the bit just spins the whole assembly.
If this is what really happened, the only solution is to get a grip on either the standoff or the screwhead. If you manage the former, you can just unscrew it. If only the latter (e.g. with a vise-grip) then you can drill it out. You might want to super-glue the other end of standoff into place afterward, if you can't tighten that side's screw.
In general, you should post a more precise description of your problem if you hope to get helpful answers.
Locking Pliers (Score:1)
Hemostat (Score:1)
Worst Case (Score:2)
If none of the above tricks work to get the screw out, use the Dremel tool to drill or cut the stand-off/mount away from the case. Chances are then that you'll want to get a new case but WTF, they're cheaper than the board.
Once you have the board free you'll have more room to work on getting the remaining mount and offending screw to part ways.
the classical solution (Score:1)
3 tools: (Score:2)
If it doesn't fit, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
Problem solved (Score:1)