DC Power distribution - Nix the Transformers? 180
MailtoDelete asks: "I have most of my electronic gear plugged into a couple power strips hanging off a UPS. Most of these devices have big block-type transformers which, besides being bulky, are a bit of an eyesore. I have been trying to find a product out there somewhere that would allow me to have one central transformer that would distribute DC power at variable voltages, depending on what devices I wish to plug into it (think one AC input and 9 or so DC outputs individually adjustable). I found this device that resembles what I have in mind, but it does not have sufficient output for my router, switches, and various other devices. Is there a product on the market already that would do this? Can I build one with my marginally above average soldering and electrical schematic skills? Have any of you found a better way to eliminate these blocky plug-hogs?"
Re:Hardware Wars (Score:5, Informative)
*tongue firmly in cheek*
Perhaps DC power distribution is the best after all.
That said, you could easily build a device to power all those said gizmos. You'd really need a quite large multi-tap transformer with appropriate ratings, and a set of voltage regulators for the various voltages... 5, 6, 9, 12, 13.8, possibly a couple of adjustable ones for those pesky items that insist on odd voltages.
I had a similar (homebuilt) device with 6 outputs, all individually regulated.
This is a good excuse for a PIC-type project to set the ouput for each port... It could adjust the regulator to get the right voltage and also toggle relays for each port to get the right transformer tap (so as to avoid dissipating too much energy in the little regulators) for any given voltage.
Re:Hardware Wars (Score:5, Informative)
A non-home solution (Score:3, Informative)
It's designed for large scale server rooms, and as such won't particularly adapt to what you want, but this does show that others have had the same thoughts and are applying them to various niches. They do also explain what they see as the benefits of this arrangement.
http://www.rackable.com/products/dcpower.htm [rackable.com]
OMG... (Score:2, Informative)
If you're pissed that a block takes up like 3 ports on a surge protector, get a short extension cord like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog_nam
Re:Wireless power! (Score:3, Informative)
Re:Liberator (Score:5, Informative)
I'm actually kinda partial to Dr. Ferd's Wart Remover [samash.com]. It's only two-wire (how many grounded wall warts do you have?) and it has a nice big box on the outlet end so you can use a pad of double-sticky mounting tape to hold the mess together.
In places where I have a bunch of wall-warts hanging around, I like to use a Furman Pluglock [samash.com] power strip to keep then together and strapped down. I broke down and bought a couple of these when I got sick of having random things come unplugged in the pile of crap under/behind my desk, and they turned out to be a great buy. They're built like tanks, too.
Re:Why? (Score:5, Informative)
You can't afford to do it right (Score:3, Informative)
You could just get auto-adapters for all your crap and then use an AC->12V converter. However, I imagine that this is more work than it's worth.
Why not just do what everybody else does and get more outlet strips?
Re:No. (Score:3, Informative)
I seem to remember from my electronics courses, many years ago that the LM series of regulators work similarly to a resistor; they dissipate over-voltages as heat. Now, while you do need some overhead voltage for the regulator to function properly, too much and you'll fry the thing. The TO220 package also had a maximum current rating of somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.5 ampres with a 6-volt DC input last time I used one and the current rating went down the higher the input voltage.
Also, don't forget you just can't hook any DC power regulator right up to the transformer as a transformer is an AC device. You'll need to add a half-wave (bleah!) or full-wave rectifier and some filtering caps to feed your regulator with. Figure .7 to 1.5 volts of voltage drop across the rectifier, and I high voltage mark of 12 volts. The LM7812 will work with 13.8 volts on the input, but you'll probably want more like 15-18 volts. At this point you're talking dropping the voltage 10 to 13 volts with the LM7805. I'd be willing to bet the regulater would, at best, smell really bad while operating and, at worst, burst into flames under significant load.
I tried many times in my youth to make some regulated circuits for running various 12-volt equipment that required anywhere from 3 to 30 ampres of current. The high-current regulators were always incredibly expensive and the lower-current (read: affordable at Radio Shack) devices always ran out of smoke.
As other people have mentioned in the articles, it's just not something that anybody other than the Telecom industry uses. The equipment is expensive as all hell and, while it makes the UPS system more simple (think 48-volts right off of huge bank of lead-acid cells), effecient, high-current DC-to-DC regulators are typically out of reach of the low budget tinkerer.
Re:Hardware Wars (Score:3, Informative)
So a lot like Billy Gates and his organisation, in fact...
Grab.
DC power distribution (Score:3, Informative)
DC is dangerous, if you get shocked by it it holds on to you more, there is no pauses in the current to allow you to get off the conductor. DC is dangerous, generaly it needs much more current for a give power because the voltage is lower, short curcuits tend to arc-weld together; Avoid DC power distribution when ever possible.
Point-of-load DC-DC converters do this (Score:3, Informative)
This, in fact, is what's happening when you have devices powered off USB, FireWire, or Ethernet. Read this discussion of how USB power distribution works. [micrel.com]
So the parts exist to do what the original poster wants to do. But they're not typically packaged for the end user.