Cutting the Cost of Household Bills? 370
schlumpf_louise asks: "I'm in the UK, and I'm about to move out of university accommodation and live in a house, for the first time. When we move, we will have to pay for water, electricity and gas. We'll still be students renting from a landlord, so we can't make any major physical changes to the property. The house has gas central heating and a gas cooker. Four computers will be running pretty much all the time, in addition to the usual general household appliances. What tips do any of you have for (legally) saving on bills? Are there any technologies that are worth buying for long term savings? What should we not do, or not use?" What other saving tips, and frugal suggestions might you have for a house full of college students?
Do your computers always need to be on? (Score:5, Insightful)
And lose Internet access (Score:5, Insightful)
If you all already have mobile phones, do you really need a landline?
If you don't have landline voice service, you can't get dial-up. If the local telco is unwilling to unbundle the local loop, and you don't have landline voice service, you can't get DSL. If you don't watch a lot of TV, and the local cable company is unwilling to sell Internet access to those who aren't cable TV customers, then you can't get cable Internet access. So yes, you may need to keep landline voice service or give up Internet access altogether.
Re:And lose Internet access (Score:3, Insightful)
-Rick
Re:And lose Internet access (Score:2, Funny)
RingDev wrote: Not if your neighbor has a wireless hub ;)
OP wrote: What tips do any of you have for (legally) saving on bills?
What is considered "theft of service" in the United Kingdom?
Re:And lose Internet access (Score:2)
Re:And lose Internet access (Score:2, Redundant)
Re:And lose Internet access (Score:2)
Re:And lose Internet access (Score:2)
http://www.cogeco.ca/en/high-speed-internet-_o.htm l [cogeco.ca]
We have the 10 Mbit/1 Mbit package. We regularly see download speeds over a meg a second, and the cap is a soft cap, rarely enforced from what I understand.
Re:And lose Internet access (Score:3, Informative)
if this happens you better ask for the rep's boss on the other end of the line because they will sell you just road runner and no tv. Many cable companies try to bully people into signing up for cable tv along with their roadrunner, but you don't have to have both. If it was actual policy to have buy both time warner would be in
You could also get a more efficient computer. (Score:3, Interesting)
*which, by the way, is cheaper (~$200) at my local Fry's for some reason
Re:You could also get a more efficient computer. (Score:3, Interesting)
Re:You could also get a more efficient computer. (Score:3, Interesting)
Re:Do your computers always need to be on? (Score:5, Funny)
You must be new here.
Re:Do your computers always need to be on? (Score:5, Informative)
Leaking appliances is certainly something to consider. Unfortunately you're stuck with countless bad decisions by your landlord, including inefficient appliances, lousy insulation, poor choices in heating/cooling systems, etc. For those that aren't subjected to a landlord's provisions and can call their own shots, I'd suggest a few options we've learned:
Blue-flame heater efficiency (Score:2)
Re:Blue flame heaters (Score:2)
Ventless heaters, while efficient, also cause moisture problems. Moisture problems cause mold and destruction. Mold causes health problems. If you're going to u
Re: (Score:2)
Mercury vapor lighting is more efficient! (Score:4, Interesting)
Mercury vapor and (high-pressure sodium and metal halide lights, too) are more efficient than flourescent! The only reason they're not used for indoor residential lighting is because the spectrum is nowhere near that of sunlight. Flourescent lighting is the most efficient type of lighting that also produces a reasonable spectrum. But for sheer photons-per-watt efficiency, HPS, MH and mercury vapor all beat flourescent.
BS (Score:3, Informative)
Your facts are WAYY wrong. If you want to refute something, at least do a lazy Google search and you could have saved yourself a bad post.
1) LEDs approach 100% efficiency.
2) Florescent lights are about 50% efficient (and varies.. compact Edison style bulbs are less efficient... LED doesn't care about the form factor)
3) Incandescent lights (including halogen) are about 5-10% efficient. That is NOT a typo they are 90% heat was
Re:Do your computers always need to be on? (Score:2)
This working out when the computers ought to be on sounds like a lot of flailing around being overly proactive. Easier to do stuff like replace incandescent bulbs with fluorescent substitutes, buy LCD monitors instead of CRTs, and things of that sort that only have to be done once.
One apartment I once ren
Re:Do your computers always need to be on? (Score:5, Insightful)
Ahem. Physicist here. First of all, he _said_ that he had electric heat. If you have electric heat, then running your computer while the heat is on is free, just as he says. A computer converts all of the energy it uses into heat, just as an electric heater does. If you're interested in making heat, then you could call both devices 100% efficient. The only difference is that in the computer, some of that energy does more interesting things before turning into heat.
As you say, if you have gas heat, this is not true. Gas is cheaper per unit of energy (although this is hard to tell from your bills, since they measure them in very different units!).
Re:Do your computers always need to be on? (Score:2, Insightful)
I mean, if you're looking at things that use power, don't use driers. Heaters/Aircon, etc will use a heap more power than your computers do (assuming you've nothing out of the ordinary for casual uni students).
Use off peak power if you've got an electronic hot water system, etc etc.
Trying to save a few bucks on computer power when you're spending hundreds on heating is silly.
Hope
Re:Do your computers always need to be on? (Score:2)
Re:Do your computers always need to be on? (Score:2)
They need to nominate one of the computers as the "bittorent machine" and do all their filesharing on that. Then the others can be turned off when they are not in use.
Re:Do your computers always need to be on? (Score:3, Insightful)
Ramen noodles (Score:4, Funny)
Re:Selling plasma (Score:2)
Re:Ramen noodles (Score:3, Funny)
Here in the US of A we don't sell our blood or donate it; we rent it out to the highest bidder. I personally favor a nice "lease-to-own" program for my clients. Sweet recurring revenue for me, eventual ownership for my clients. If this were '98 or '99 I'd be talking to venture capitalists by now...
Turn off (Score:4, Insightful)
Pile on the blankets, dont run the heater.
Re:Turn off (Score:2, Funny)
Re:Turn off (Score:2)
Re:Turn off (Score:2)
If temparature in the house below 15C, than heater can be turned on in rooms in use.
If temparature with heater on 18C it is warm enough, keep temperature like that.
Ofcourse no heater on at night or when you are not at home, and my place its gasbill was 75% lower than the 21C everywhere in the 2 room with kitchen appartment people.
What also helps is live in an appartment anyway: Your neighbours do keep your place warmer. I had one place which always was a comfortable 21C with
Your computers double as space heaters (Score:5, Funny)
Re:Your computers double as space heaters (Score:2)
Compact Fluorescent Bulbs (Score:4, Informative)
- They use ~25% of the power of regular bulbs (for the equivalent light output)
- They tend to last 5 times longer
- The electronic balasts of modern CFB don't cause flicker (and thus avoid headaches...)
- Modern CFBs use better phosphorescents that match the color temperature of typical incandescents.
The only real downside is that they *are* more expensive than regular bulbs, but the energy (money) you save in the first few months allows it to quickly pay for itself.
Re:Compact Fluorescent Bulbs (Score:2)
-Rick
Re:Compact Fluorescent Bulbs (Score:4, Informative)
Ikea bulbs (Score:2)
Re:Compact Fluorescent Bulbs (Score:2, Interesting)
Re:Compact Fluorescent Bulbs (Score:2)
Re:Compact Fluorescent Bulbs (Score:2)
I'd certainly strongly recommend compact fluorescent bulbs - we've switched 100% to them and had a noticable reduction in our electricity bill.
An appraisal (Score:4, Informative)
Power used over 1000 hours: 60 kWh.
Cost of power over 1000 hours: $4.80
Total cost for 1000 hours: $5.40
Cost of 17-watt CF (60-watt equivalent, in 6-pack from Home Depot): $1.75, with tax.
Fraction of lifespan used in 1000 hours: 10%
Total cost of CF for 1000 hours: 17.5 cents
Power used over 1000 hours: 17 kWh
Cost of power over 1000 hours: $1.52
Total outlay for first 1000 hours: $3.27
Value of remaining bulb lifespan: $1.57
Total cost for 1000 hours: $1.70
Appraisal of you: you're much more dogmatic than geekishly analytical. Turn in your geek badge to security on the way out of Slashdot.
Yes, $1.75 for a CF bulb (Score:3, Informative)
Even at that price, the incandescent burns enough energy to make up the difference in < 2000 hours. I've paid $20 for some 3-way circle-tube CF's. I've gotten my money's worth out of them.
Conservation begins at home (Score:2)
All this takes cooperation and discipline!
Good luck.
Stop-and-go (hard) driving (Score:3, Interesting)
I would second the bit about turn the computers on ONLY when you need them.
Doesn't starting and stopping the hard drives cause more wear and tear on the motor and bearings?
Re:Stop-and-go (hard) driving (Score:2, Informative)
There is a reason server rated hard drives cost more and it's not just because they spin faster.
Re:Stop-and-go (hard) driving (Score:3, Interesting)
turn the heat down every night (Score:4, Informative)
Plastic on the windows (Score:5, Informative)
My Tips: (Score:2, Troll)
1.) Keep the computers off. I mean, wtf. I turn mine off when I go to sleep, cause I don't want to hear it. And that's even watercooled and very quiet - I just don't want to hear it. Plus it costs money. Are you even home that often? What's your computer even doing, really? If it's that bad, find an old laptop with a dead battery and make it the apartment server so you can leave it downloading your new Lost episodes or whatever. Need space? USB HDD. Laptops use less power. Also, encourage everyon
Re:My Tips: (Score:4, Interesting)
The LCDs do not pay for themselves in a year. Not even if you live somewhere where you have to run the air conditioner year round, and you pay for every watt twice, once to use and once to cool it.
The max savings you can approach, presuming all the above, is about $25/year. The price difference between a CRT and an LCD is way more than that.
Remember, just because it's high-tech, doesn't mean it's a good idea !
Economics isn't the only motivation... (Score:2)
However - on the kill-a-watt topic, I plugged my entire PC system (monitor, speakers, etc) into it, and realized that even idle, it's using 140-150 watts. While gaming, it jumps up over 200 watts. It's also consuming over 25 watts at id
Re:Economics isn't the only motivation... (Score:2)
Ack, that should read when powered off.
Re: (Score:2)
Easy tips (Score:2)
Turn your hot water heat setting as cool as you are comfortable with. (Experiment a bit so you don't end up shorting the poor SOB who's last into the shower.
Also, since you'v
Re:Easy tips (Score:2)
Actually, that's a pretty interesting idea... Has anyone released a water heater with a thermostat and some way to monitor its status--current reserve, temperature?
Save! (Score:4, Funny)
My old roommate the scammer. (Score:4, Funny)
Late that night, I found him outside dressed in all black, carrying a trenching shovel and a long extension cord toward our neighbors' house...
food (Score:4, Informative)
Re: (Score:2)
Learn to cook (Score:4, Insightful)
Follow that one by shoping for clothes at the local version of Goodwill, turn down the heat, plug the drafts, and unplug appliances not in use. Consider adding an insulating blanket to your hot water heater, if it's not an instant-on type.
And, of course, don't do anything that makes holes in walls. Those are pricey to fix and tend to make landlords a bit touchy. The same comment applies to carpets.
Build your own house. (Score:2, Offtopic)
1. Insulation. Lots and lots of insulation. Insulation is not sexy, but if you make very thick walls, like three feet thick, and spray in the fiberglass-pink, as well as use tin-foil to reflect infared back into the home. . , you can basically heat a home with minimal effort. A wood stove, or a heat from a compost heap set downhill from the house with circulating pipes to carry heat to the floors, etc., plus use of solar heat collection. . . Kill your heating bills. There are lots
Re:Build your own house. (Score:2)
For the last 10 years, I've lived in a few different apartments and my electricity bill has not often been above 50, and often below. With that as an average cost, that $10,000 is about 16 years of power. Would that equipment last that long without replacement?
While I like
Re:Build your own house. (Score:2)
Me too, for about 10 years. (Though my power bills, even shared among room-mates, have been higher than that. I think the age of the building figures into the equation.)
Anyway, if you want to start a family and live in a proper house, those costs suddenly become something to consider. My electricity bill for 2006, barring changes to global energy prices, is going to be abou
Seal it up (Score:5, Informative)
A few tubes of caulk to seal up small cracks and some stick-on weather stripping for windows and doors will go a long way toward keeping the temperature more stable. Also there are foam gaskets you can put behind the wall plates of switches and sockets to keep drafts out.
Drapes open on cold days to get in the sun's heat. Closed on warm days to keep it out.
Showers are a huge point of waste. A few dollars/pounds will get you a shower valve you screw in-line with the shower head. You can then reduce the water flow when you're not actually needing it and then turn it up again to rinse off. Showers generally cost you 3x, incoming water, heating water, waste water charge.
If you have access to your water heater and the pipes coming from it, add insulation to them. A water heater wrap and some foam tube insulation will keep the water hotter for longer in the tank and the pipes to the shower.
If you have a smaller shower room, hang your wrinkled clothes in there, it will help remove wrinkles and prevent you turning on the iron (ha ha, I know).
Keep the fridge full. The more "stuff" in the fridge the more efficient it is. Air heats/cools quickly and escapes readily when the door is opened. Stuff in the fridge will help the temperature come back to cold quickly and reduce run-time. Also, keep the door closed as much as possible. Standing in front of the fridge with the door open searching for something to eat is a tremendous waste.
Line-dry your clothes indoors instead of machine drying. On a breezy summer day indoors with open windows the evaporation will cool the air; in the winter the humidity will help make the air feel warmer at lower temperatures.
When cooking, use lower gas settings on the cooker. High-heat spills a lot of heat past the pan in to the air. Medium-low heat will usually get the job done just as well with only a slight increase in pre-heat and cooking time.
Find, and keep clean the filer for the central heat if it's forced air.
Try to cook for the entire house at one time instead of each member cooking their own meals. Economies of scale and all; better to heat the kitchen up once for 20 minutes that 4-5 times 10 minutes each.
Low-cost 1/2 Styrofoam panels can easily be cut to fit in to windows to block out cold nights, or to fit around the outside of a particularly lame fridge.
Learn to cook. (Score:3, Insightful)
If you haven't already, learn to cook. It's possible eat better, healthier, and cheaper than most of the restaurants you're probably eating at, if you know where to shop and what to make. Be willing to buy in bulk (things often cost half as much). Make a lot of meals based around rice (rice is cheap).
Just consider this: where I'm at, I can eat filet mignon for the same price as a sandwich from Subway. Now just imagine if you start eating cheap food!
Also, track your expenses in this area. Only when you know what you're spending can you optimize effectively.
While you're at it, learn to bake. Cakes impress the girls.
Re: (Score:2)
Re: (Score:2)
cooperation (Score:2, Informative)
This is the kind of thing that can test friendships.
Several of these have been mentioned before:
Re:cooperation (Score:2)
You forgot the most important thing:
If its yellow, let it mellow.
If its brown, flush it down.
Re:cooperation (Score:2)
"..and if it's red, go to bed."
Just went through this myself (Score:5, Informative)
* Cancel movie rental subscription (Netflix)
* Get movies and some books from the library
* Cancel old unused website costing a monthly fee
* Scour credit card statements, found another forgotton hosting account, cancelled it
* Called auto insurance company and raised deductible for collision to $1000
* Bought a stovetop espresso maker so we don't need to buy good coffee by the cup now
* Continued living with our old outdated computer monitor
* No cable, no gaming accounts
* No alchohol, no drugs, no lottery tickets
* Pay things on time and avoid late fees
* Remember if taxes take 50%, you have to earn $2 for each $1 you spend.
* Stop buying stuff.
* Get cheaper broadband plan
* Cancel unused text messaging on wife's cell phone ($5/mo)
* Cancel unused roaming plan ($5/mo)
* Cancel unused Canada roaming addon ($3/mo)
* Cancel unused "nights start at 7PM" addon on cell plan ($5/mo)
* Ask nicely and get $10/mo unlimited cell data plan, including modem use (Sprint, Treo 650) instead of faster Cingular $40/mo+ plan
* Refrain from getting car. Get exercise instead.
Lots of little amounts, and some big ones. They add up.
Re:Just went through this myself (Score:4, Funny)
As a college student myself, I was with you and nodding my head until...
No alchohol, no drugs
My guess is that the OP was asking for ways to save money so he could purchase more of these.
Car culture (Score:2)
Refrain from getting car. Get exercise instead.
So what do you do when an affordable apartment is 80 km away from employment? Or is this not the case in the UK?
Re:Just went through this myself (Score:2)
In the long run, you'll probably break even or save money with the power savings from an LCD monitor.
Re: (Score:2)
Re:Just went through this myself (Score:3, Funny)
That's easy. I can stop any tome.
Re:Just went through this myself (Score:2)
"Living frugally without hardship" (Score:5, Informative)
It is pretty long, but full of valuable information.
From one freezing climate to another (Score:5, Interesting)
Check around the edges of windows, especially in older buildings. Frequently, cracks will form around the edges where you can clearly feel cold leaking in. Get some silicone sealant from the local hardware, and close those holes.
Put cloth underneath and around any doors that have any space. Taking the doors off and stapling them is ideal, but in a pinch you can use glue or staple the strips to the front and back.
Compact Flourescent bulbs are a lot more energy efficient than regular ones, and last longer. And if you look around, there have been a few batches at dollar stores recently... can't beat more efficient, longer lasting, and cheaper.
Turn off your monitors when not in use. This will save as much as shutting off your computer, and is less of a pain in the arse.
Don't get a house phone. Get high speed 'net access, skype, and use cellphones. But keep the landlines away. While you're at it, halve your costs: go in for high-speed access with the people above or below you, and run your own cable. Just make a no-uploading rule or you'll find your pipe clogged in no time.
No cable: get utorrent and download shows.
Avoid even thinking about World of Warcraft.
Have a parking space you're not using? Sublet it.
No offence, but don't worry so much about the "legally" part. Everyone assumes you sublet despite what your lease says. Everyone assumes you will do things to change the apartment like paint it. People share network access all the time. It's just built in. If you screw things up, it gives them legal right to sue you, but otherwise it is just business as usual.
Don't buy any furnature. Wait until the students are moving out, if you can, to pick some up for free. Of course, you'll probably be moving out then too, so I guess that plan works best for the rest of us.
Locate your meeters, then put a magnet inside wall (Score:2, Funny)
Too many gause and you will break the meeter. So add wraps to your electromagnet untill it just stops the meeter.
Then hook the magnet up to a timer (so you will still use some electricity and so the meeter will be running when read).
Viola you've just cut your utility bills without any of that tiresome conservation etc.
Re: (Score:2)
LED Flashlight (Score:5, Informative)
refrigerator efficiency (Score:2, Informative)
Actually, the small "dorm" refrigerators are so horribly built that they use about as much electricity as a normal sized fridge. The thing that will make a difference, though, is having a new fridge versus an older one. Same goes for old A/C units, don't bother with those.
Re:LED Flashlight (Score:4, Insightful)
I don't know about that. A LCD of similar size and resolution to my CRT would cost about $600. Let's even assume that by CRT draws about 200W (the label on the back says 1.7A/120V, but that's going to be worst case.). In my area, electricity costs $0.08 per kWh. The LCD would take 37,500 hours to pay for itself $600/($0.08/kWh)/0.2kW. At that rate, I would take over 4 years for the LCD to pay for itself, even if I leave my current monitor on 24/7/365. To me, the savings just aren't enough to make me rush out and buy an LCD. I might consider it when it comes time to replace this monitor.
remember the first law (Score:5, Interesting)
If you MUST have 4 computers running - they will eat something like 500-800+ watts - so you need to use or get rid of that amount of energy. (note that CRTs use similar amounts - use LCDs!)
Most refrigerators use something less than 500-800 watts to cool their interiors - but many (most) use motors to compress coolant and dump the heat out to cooling coils on the back (heating the surrounding room). Why not instead use a 'fridge that uses an absorption cycle (like the ones you find in a camper that use either electricity or gas to provide heat but don't use a motor) and run it off the heat of the computers?
Note that you'll have to provide some dump for the heat - so you'll probably want to put the computers (and some part of the fridge) near an outside wall so you can dump heat outside (choose the side away from the sun) - use long monitor cables etc. to bring the video/keyboard/mouse connections to where you want them.
In Summer - open the windows near the computers to let the heat out
In Winter - put a fan there and blow the excess heat into the rest of the house.
Of course you might want to run some copper tubing from the water supply near these heat sources to pre-heat the water prior to running it into the normal water heater too. You can also plumb them into solar panels on the roof in Summer (and even in Winter in some areas) to preheat water. A little bit of electronics might be necessary to ensure you don't overheat the water - I've almost burned my hand off the panels I have on the roof for my pool :)
Lots of ways of (re)using the energy you take into the house before letting it out - and taking advantage of the energy that is freely available from the sun when it shines.
Re:remember the first law (Score:5, Funny)
1. He's from the UK. We don't really get a summer here.
2. Open the windows as apposed to what? Turning on the air conditioning? He's from the UK. We don't have air conditioning in our homes.
"[take] advantage of the energy that is freely available from the sun when it shines"
HE'S FROM THE UK!!!
God bless The Queen!
LCD's (Score:3, Informative)
Find and eliminate "wall warts", those little black inverters / chargers that are constantly drawing anywhere from 4 to 15 watts. I'd suggest getting a cheap power strip (one that has a switch) and putting it on top of your desk, then taking plugging as many of the warts into that as possible. Phone charger, laptop brick, iPod Charger, PC speaker inverter, and anything you can plug in that has a remote control.
When you're not using those items, turn off the strip. You can cut out anywhere from 20 to 80 watts of useless power. Multiply that by the hours you save (because hey, your PC speakers need to be sucking power when you're fast asleep...) and you can make a decent dent in your bill. (it's also a bit healthier for battery charged items to not be sucking power all the time.)
Aside from that? Compact flourescent bulbs help, and not being a dumbass helps more. Don't heat anything with electricity if you can avoid it, don't leave lights on all the time, enable powersave features on the PC's when you can.
Geothermal Heat Pumps (Score:2)
Utilities Included (Score:2)
I even used electric space heaters in the winter (the only heat option the apartment had was a firepla
Re:Utilities Included (Score:2)
On the other hand, some people will say the experience of managing utility bills, wrangling co-habitants about their energy usage and learning to suffer a bit in your home is a healthy one.
Another thing, think hard whether it's worth doing it at
Change supplier (Score:2)
Most importantly, brew your own beer. It costs around 10p a pint and can even taste nice if you get a good rec
Recently (Score:2)
Several easy measures... (Score:2, Informative)
Expect to argue with your housemates (Score:2)
The bill was massive, but because their parents paid their share, they didn't care. So now the central heating (a 35kW gas combi boiler)
Advice from a British former student (Score:5, Informative)
Anyway. Assuming no structural changes allowed (so you can't touch wall cavities etc) and assuming you don't have UPVC double glazing etc.
1. Draught insulation on all doors and windows. Find every draught and stop it. You can get thses strips in Homebase, Do It All etc. They come in different thicknesses so choose wisely. Be prepared to get dirty cleaning all the spaces in the joints where the spiders live otherwise the strips won't stick.
2. When it's cold, wear more clothes and only heat the rooms you use and keep the doors shut so you don't heat the rooms you're not using.
3. If you want to heat a room quickly (say you're the first one back after being at lectures all day) get a small desk fan and set it blowing across the radiator in the living room. It will cirulate the warm air surprisingly quickly.
4. Cook and eat meals together as a group. This is cheaper, you'll eat better and it's relaxing to have everyone sit down together after they have all been out (hopefully) studying all day . Do the obvious like learn how to skin and quarter a fresh chicken rather than buy expensive chicken pieces (hint: kitchen scissors). You don't need to be a great cook, learn to do one simple meal such as a Chilli Con Carne, expand your repotoir later. We had a complicated looking list (it would be a spreadsheet today) of money spent by each person either for the group or for other individuals so we could work out who owed each other what at the end of the term. It saved any arguments and meant the whole 'cooking for the group' thing did work.
5. Much has been said about computers already. If you can get to a power socket in the library, consider working there. This would obviously require a laptop but you keep warm, have free electricity and hopefully *don't* have a distracting net connection.
6. If you have big windows, consider that platic double glazing stuff you can get. For what ammounts to some double sided tape and a sheet of clear plastic stuck over the window, then shrunk tight with a hair dryer you do get pretty good insulation.
One more thing. University is getting stupidly expensive now in the UK, you are going to get into a lot of debt anyway. But you are not there to get a degree as cheaply as possible. You are there to enjoy yourself, to learn about life and yes; to get a degree. So have some fun along the way and don't sit freezing in a room when being warm isn't going to make much difference to the £20k debt you might well be facing at the end. Which is why I don't suggest not drinking beer. You'll be spending more on beer than on food and possibly utility bills as well.
Three simple things, one more complex (Score:3)
I lived in a house in Ireland for some time. It was built in the 1970s, and was astonishingly inefficient. I remember watching the TV one night and suddenly realizing why the house was so cold -- the drapes in the living room were blowing around, I had left a window open. Actually, the window was closed, the wind was blowing right throught the gaps around it. The whole house was like this, so if the one you end up in is similar, here's some thing:
1) there's a film you can buy that heat-shrinks to form an almost perfectly transparent barrier over your windows. You put it up in late fall and tear it down in the spring. It takes 5 to 10 minutes per window to install. The effect, if you have windows like mine, is astonishing.
2) get a timed thermostat. Set it to lower the temperature at night and during the day when no-one is home. That's 10-15% if you lower it enough.
3) you can get foam gaskets that fit behind the electrical sockets, blocking airflow into the room. Yes, I know, it sounds like this can't possibly make a difference. Wait until you have a windy night then hold your hand over a socket on an outside wall some time.
4) this one is slightly harder: buy a caulking gun, practice up on some cardboard, and then caulk around every baseboard, door and every other crack you can find. I highly recommend using the transparent silicone that you can later peel off. It costs a little more, but it's easy to fix if you blow it during application, and you can get rid of it if anyone complains. Caulking is messy when you first try it, but easy once you get the hang of it.
Foam and Caps (Score:3, Insightful)
The other thing you can do is check the wall switches and outlets. If you feel a draft a spray can of electrical outlet safe foam will go a long way toward sealing the draft. But you're not done yet, put caps on any outlet that isn't in use, all those slots in the house can equal a quater inch or one half centimeter open window.
Re:Foam and Caps (Score:3, Insightful)
Side benefit is that if all the pipes are covered in foam you are far less likely to have problems with bursting from frozen pipes.
Not a problem in my area, but some locales it's critical.
Re:General (Score:2)