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Wireless Networking Hardware

Parent-Friendly Wireless Bridge To Span 500 Meters? 558

GonnaBRichYeahYeah! writes "My dad lives down a dirt road 500 meters off the main road. The cable company will not put cable down his lane for any less than the ridiculous sum of $10,000. And he cannot get phone line DSL since he is so far away from the central terminal, so he relied on painful 22k/sec dial-up for access to the Internet. He got sick of it and relies on Hughes satellite Internet, at $60/month, but he still has to be connected to a phone line to upload to the Internet. It's not a good solution, but better than dial-up. His friend lives on the corner of the main drag with his lane and has cable, thus hi-speed Internet. I suggested that he get a wireless access point, and put it at his friend's house and then get a wireless card for access. The problem is that no wireless routers go that far (max range of -N is 200 feet) and WiMax is too complex for a 70-year old man. Any suggestions from Slashdot crowd would be helpful." Plenty of people make wireless links over longer distances, but often they're not suited for people who want simplicity and reliability. What's the best out there right now?
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Parent-Friendly Wireless Bridge To Span 500 Meters?

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  • by avronius ( 689343 ) * on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:11PM (#23507650) Homepage Journal
    Supplies:
    Hoe (one per helper)
    500 meters of heavy duty conduit
    500 meters of cable (recommend that you lay fiber at the same time)

    Solution 1:
    1a: Dig a long trench from the cable termination point down the dirt road to your father's house
    1b: Dig a long trench from "the closest neighbour with cable internet" down the dirt road to your father's hose
          Ensure that the trench is at least 18 inches deep, roughly 8 inches wide

    2. Lay 500 meters of heavy duty conduit. Ensure that you are threading your cable through the conduit all the way along. Attempting to thread the cable AFTER the counduit has been completed may prove to be problematic.

    3a: Call the cable company to connect the cable to the cable termination point. Begin paying monthly subscription to cable internet provider.
    3b: If you've chosen to run the connection to your neighbhour's home, ensure that you don't piss him/her off. They are now your cable internet provider.

    4. Profit $$$
  • Proper Antenna (Score:5, Informative)

    by Anonymous Coward on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:14PM (#23507716)
    Just get a proper directional antenna to replace the one on the router. Do the same for your neighbor and link'em together I got one when I was living back Prague and connected with a 200kb/s link to an access point about 300 meters away (that was the speed of the connection - not the actual link). Actually, it's quite common for people to construct neighborhood networks that way (well at least in CZ)

  • by Anonymous Coward on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:16PM (#23507746)
    I'd go with two APs with directional antennas configured as a wireless bridge. Hook up an ethernet cable to AP and its just like being connected to your friend's network. Albeit with a bit more latency.

    If he needs wireless at home, I'd get 3 APs. 2 for the direct bridge, and another to broadcast at home.
  • Doable with 802.11g (Score:5, Informative)

    by rs6krox ( 630570 ) * on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:16PM (#23507754) Homepage
    500 meters is about 1,640 feet. I do that to my parents place now. I just got two Linksys routers running dd-wrt and two good outdoor antennas. With dd-wrt I cranked up the radio output a bit and have no problem getting full throughput over about that same distance.
  • You can use wireless (Score:5, Informative)

    by Exstatica ( 769958 ) * on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:18PM (#23507790) Homepage
    I live near lax, but my building has really old wiring and i can't get dsl at this location, but i'm a mile from the office and once on the roof i found i had line of sight. I bought two wireless access points from ascendance, I bought the heavy ones cause i wanted to use the high performance radios so i can get 100mbit. (i work for an isp and i was able to just bring it right into my colo. But if you get http://www.ascendance.net/storefront/detail.aspx?ID=788 [ascendance.net] that should work two, you need two of them. Configuration isn't difficult, you set one as an AP and the other as a client, set your encryption and static /30 ip. and aim them at eachother. All done. On average with the standard radio you can get 20mbits up and down, and its solid enough to put voip calls over. The max range is just under 5 miles, that should cover you. Hope that helps.
  • by 0p7imu5_P2im3 ( 973979 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:18PM (#23507792) Journal

    Linksys (I don't know about others) come with a standard antenna port. With a directional, high-gain antenna pointed at your dad's house from the neighbor's, you could probably make the connection. Worst case, you might need to get some custom firmware and turn up the transmission strength a tad. (I suggest Tomato.)

    Look up "coffee can wifi antennas" on google. This will make it cheap and "easy."

  • Cantenna? (Score:5, Informative)

    by smellsofbikes ( 890263 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:18PM (#23507804) Journal
    You can buy [cantenna.com] or build [turnpoint.net] a cantenna. They're illegal. But with a bit of work and patience, they function well. I dunno if a simple can-based setup can handle half a kilometer (and if it can, it's going to need a good solid connection to the house to keep it aligned) but I do know that a cantenna operated at the focal point of a used satellite dish will work fine up into the several kilometer range.
    They're really cheap to build. You generally need to find reverse-polarity RF connectors to hook to the card in the computer. Digikey.com, newark.com, and mouser.com all sell reverse-polarity rf connectors. Traditionally people put n-type rf connectors on the antenna but that's a pain: I built mine using a bnc bulkhead connector on the can, and a rp-sma-to-bnc converter connector on my wireless adapter card, and just ran bnc cable from one to the other.

    Mine only runs 40 meters through a couple of walls. Hopefully other people will correct this if it's the wrong solution for 500 meters.
  • by drachenstern ( 160456 ) <drachenstern@gmail.com> on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:18PM (#23507810) Journal
    Have you seen these? I think they would require LoS for maximum efficiency, but it's worth a peak. You could use two directional high gain antennas and point them at each other if LoS is nearly there... But bear in mind that nothing about their doc requires LoS, just that we all know it works better if there is.

    http://www.hawkingtech.com/products/productlist.php?CatID=32&FamID=58&ProdID=133 [hawkingtech.com]
  • Anonymous Coward (Score:1, Informative)

    by Anonymous Coward on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:19PM (#23507822)
    Put old b mode and two directional antennas. I write this over such 11 mbps link over 3km distance
  • by Lumpy ( 12016 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:20PM (#23507850) Homepage
    I suggest learning about antennas.

    Wireless access point at each end, directional antennas, wifi goodness ensues.

    I've done 1000 meters with simple patch antennas and wrt54g routers running dd-wrt to create a wireless ethernet extension. Only heavy rain will drop the connection.

    Otherwise look up the laser types. there are hundreds of websites on how to do this simple and common task.
  • by mnslinky ( 1105103 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:20PM (#23507854) Homepage
    See if this works for you:

    There is an article at engadget [engadget.com] about this sort of thing. It requires line-of-site, but I'm sure you could manage that.

    If you've tried every antenna and extender on the market today with subpar results, HD Communications is apt to become your new best friend. The outfit has just revealed its HD26200, a "complete outdoor wireless network bridge in the 802.11b/g unlicensed 2.4GHz band that sells for only $318." Said device bridges wireless internet between two locales up to 5 miles apart without requiring a single RF cable, being that both Ubiquiti network radios are powered over Ethernet. If you're looking for the catch, the bridge does require a direct line of sight between the two locations, but the firm is reportedly looking to expand its non-line of sight family by the summer's end.


    Link to the Article [businesswire.com]

    Hope this helps.

  • by corsec67 ( 627446 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:21PM (#23507862) Homepage Journal
    I was going to suggest a pair of WRT54GL [amazon.com]s running Tomato [polarcloud.com] with some 15dBi antennas [amazon.com], but ethernet like that is going to be a much more reliable solution, if a bit harder to install.
  • SMC 2891W (Score:3, Informative)

    by JumboMessiah ( 316083 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:22PM (#23507880)
    I know these look pricey, but they're worth it (aka: save yourself the trouble of cheap indoor access points in a box). They have everything you need, all in a rugged outdoor enclosure. And yes, they run Linux.

    SMC2891W-AG Wireless Outdoor Bridge

    Data Sheet [smc.com]

    Manual [smc.com]

  • by GateGuy ( 973596 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:22PM (#23507886) Journal
    I think you might be working too hard.

    Cable is considered low voltage, so in some states it does not have to be buried 18 inches. Also why would you dig a trench 8 inches wide? Rent a small trencher, it make about trench about 3-4 inches wide. Use a trench shovel to clear out the trench.

    Also, if you are using PVC, if you pull the line through as you are gluing the conduit together, you stand a great chance of gluing your pull string in place. Best thing to do is to shoot a mouse through the pipe (a mouse is a special plug that almost exactly fits a conduit that you attach a very light weight pull string to. On the other end you use a shop-vac to suck it out).

    I would also have a pull box installed every 100 meters. 500 meters would be one heck of a pull.
  • Re:Get a long cord (Score:3, Informative)

    by Cerberus7 ( 66071 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:24PM (#23507918)
    Uh... that's a little out of spec for Ethernet. Would need a repeater. Or two. Or five.
  • by Anonymous Coward on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:25PM (#23507936)
    Ok, the first thing that comes to mind are permits. And who's land is all of the conduit going under?

    The second thing is you're going to dig a half-kilometer ditch (5.5 football fields) with a hoe? Ditch-witch my friend.

    Wireless is much cheaper.
  • by Holi ( 250190 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:25PM (#23507944)
    Forget the backhoe what he needs is a Ditch Witch [ditchwitch.com]. We had the same issue in Oregon, we lived on 280 acres and lived 1/2 a mile from the main road. It really is your only option if you are going to live in the boondocks.
  • by Lumpy ( 12016 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:26PM (#23507954) Homepage
    2. Lay 500 meters of heavy duty conduit. Ensure that you are threading your cable through the conduit all the way along. Attempting to thread the cable AFTER the counduit has been completed may prove to be problematic.

    nope. spool of string, a soft poofy to tie on then fo string that fits easily in conduit and a wet-dry vac. works great. I suggest pulling a string along with the wire so you can easily re-do it later or add another wire.

    BTW: 1500 feet of cat 5 does not work well for ethernet. get a pair of sdsl modems and put one at each end of the wire and you can go for 20 miles.
  • It would be nice.. (Score:3, Informative)

    by FamineMonk ( 877465 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:27PM (#23507978)
    If you gave a little more info. If you have line of sight then its no problem at all just buy 2 routers that can be flashed to DD-WRT. (I suggest the Asus WL-500G Premium or the Linksys WRT54GL I own both and they both work like a charm just make sure you buy the right connector Asus: rp-SMC/linksys: rp-TNC)

    After you figure that out go to http://www.hyperlinktech.com/familylist.aspx?id=146 [hyperlinktech.com] or where ever you want to get an Antenna.

    my guess is your going to want to grab the 24db one seeing as how the 30 jumps quite a bit in price. after that mount them both with line of sight connect everything up and you should be good to go. If you don't have line of sight then its going to depend on whats in the way if its possible at all.
  • by maino82 ( 851720 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:28PM (#23507982)
    pullbox every 30m if you're a stickler for EIA/TIA/BiCSI standards
  • by davidwr ( 791652 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:28PM (#23507986) Homepage Journal
    There are companies out there who will do a professional job of installing fixed-wireless from point A to point B.

    You may want to pay your neighbor for a utilities easement to either run a cable down his property or install point A for fixed-wireless on his property. Then, pay the cable company as normal for them to connect Point A to their hookup. You will also need to get electrical service. The up-front costs won't be cheap but it will be a lot less than $10K.

    If there are several neighbors affected, you may want to form a co-op or contract with a company who will own the easement.
  • Call Huges (Score:2, Informative)

    by SrJsignal ( 753163 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:29PM (#23507998)
    All of the new Hugesnet installs have bi-directional to the satelight, so then you don't have to use the phone line. I think the up is 64kbps.
    All of the Wifi sharing ideas are going to be against the TOS of the company that is being "shared"
  • by JonWan ( 456212 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:31PM (#23508042)
    But .....

    1. Make sure you have permission from the land owners to dig the trench and lay the line.

    2. Stay away from the state/city/county right of way, or the next time they work on something your line will be torn up.

    3. ???

    4. Profit
  • Re:Proper Antenna (Score:5, Informative)

    by ciscoguy01 ( 635963 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:34PM (#23508078)
    We've done 5 mile links with a pair of *old* wallmount AT&T Wavelan bridges and proper antennas on 915 Mhz. Those units were 400mw.
    Ticking along for years. 2 MBPS, faster than T1 speed. And proprietary FHSS, no freeloaders. Heh.

    You have to get the antenna up above the fresnel effect and any obstructions at the frequency in use, about 60' for 915 Mhz, more like 30' for 2.4 Ghz. Which is why 2.4 Ghz is easier. I would have no problem running that link at either frequency. It'll work fine.
    You can do it. No problems at all.
    Give good attention to the antennas, that's what you need to get it to work.
  • by char70ger ( 1234672 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:35PM (#23508102)
    Why not just get an aircard? You can get wireless EVDO routers like this one from keyocera. http://www.evdoinfo.com/content/view/264/63/ [evdoinfo.com] Or even get a pci to pcmcia adapter, this will allow you to use one in your PC. They sell them at newegg for under $20.00. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815124021Y [newegg.com] I used a Verizon air card for over a year and ran a 5 computer network off it. I had to use an external antenna as I had no signal with my pc on the floor in the corner of my room.It was made by Wilson they call it their "Trucker Cellular Antenna" http://www.wpsantennas.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3 [wpsantennas.com] It cost me 100 bucks but was well worth the investment. It wasn't cable but it sure beat dial-up. I now have a wireless setup that uses Motorola Canopy technology that rocks!!!
  • Tranzeo (Score:2, Informative)

    by rebelcan ( 918087 ) <slashdot@seanhagen.ca> on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:43PM (#23508228) Homepage
    https://tranzeo.com/ [tranzeo.com]

    For 500 meters, you can use the 802.11a or 802.11bg ( TR-5a series and TR-6000 series respectively ) without too many problems, as long as you have good line of sight. If there are a few trees, then the 900MHz stuff might be a better idea, but if there's a forest or a lot of buildings between your friend and your dad, you're boned. Just make sure that regardless of what kind of radio you get ( and regardless of what manufacturer you buy from ), use an antenna with as narrow beamwidth as you can get, ESPECIALLY for the 900MHz. For a point-to-point install, omni antennas are not your friend. Yagi or dish antennas might be a bitch to setup, but you'll have very little noise or interference.

    Disclaimer: yes, I work for this company, but I really don't give two hoots if you use our stuff. Just make sure you get the right equipment ( ie: NO OMNI ANTENNAS ). I can't believe how many people think that omni antennas are a good idea ( especially for 900Mhz, ouch ).
  • Do it like Cox. (Score:3, Informative)

    by gnutoo ( 1154137 ) * on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:45PM (#23508274) Journal

    The guy who serviced my house had what looked like a big pizza cutter on a stick. It buried the cable about two inches deep.

    Conduit is neither required nor used for cable and phone in a residential setting. If you break it you patch it. This is simple and low cost.

  • by borcharc ( 56372 ) * on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:53PM (#23508418)
    Just run phone quality twisted pair (cat 3) if you have adjacent land or can get permission from any adjacent land owners. Just buy low cost VDSL Ethernet bridges, they can be obtained for less then $200. Also 2000 ft of cat 3 can be obtained for less then $200 (just bridge two 1000ft spools vdsl doesn't care).

    Then go aerial, affix the cat 3 to a wire (for support) and put a 10 ft pole every 10 meters or so. Aerial is most likely the easiest to install, maintain, and upgrade. It also allows for the running of coax for a future cable tv install that will require additional amplification to reach your fathers house.

    The nice thing about running cat 3 is vdsl has a nice upgrade path to 100 mbps and beyond.
  • by Anonymous Coward on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:54PM (#23508430)
    Or you can apparently do this....

    I Cringley article on hopping a wifi signal over a mountain. [pbs.org]
  • Re:Just a thought... (Score:2, Informative)

    by darkone ( 7979 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:54PM (#23508432) Homepage
    Cantenna (or use a pringles jar)

    http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/SearchDetail.asp?productID=15229 [cyberguys.com]
  • Re:Proper Antenna (Score:3, Informative)

    by houstonbofh ( 602064 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:58PM (#23508476)
    I have done well over 500 yards many times. In one case obstrusted with masts, and over water. I used the wrt54gl with Thybor firmware, and Hawking a Antenna http://www.hawkingtech.com/products/productlist.php?CatID=32&FamID=58&ProdID=152 [hawkingtech.com] (no problem outside) and amplifier http://www.hawkingtech.com/products/productlist.php?CatID=32&FamID=72&ProdID=187 [hawkingtech.com] with no issues at all. Well under $400 and 1 hour of time.
  • by gbjbaanb ( 229885 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @01:58PM (#23508488)
    I hope you understand (before digging) that the range limit for ethernet (even cat 6) is 100 metres. And 100BaseFx (ie fibre) is 400 metres.

    Howeverm if you lay multimode-fibre then you can get a length of 2km out of it. I have no idea what kind of routers you'd need to make that work, but I guess they'd be expensive.
  • Re:From Engadget... (Score:5, Informative)

    by madsenj37 ( 612413 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:02PM (#23508530)
    Its the HD26200 from HD Communications Corp. I went to Engadget to find this myself. Its the $318, 5 mile solution that only requires a line of sight. The HD26200 is made up of two high performance Ubiquiti network radios with integrated 17dbi dual polarity antennas that are configured in wireless bridge mode. The HD26200 bridge is also powered over ethernet, so no RF cables are required, only an outdoor CAT5 cable to bring both data and power to the radios. HD Corp also has non-line of sight outdoor products.
  • Re:Cantenna? (Score:1, Informative)

    by Anonymous Coward on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:05PM (#23508578)

    You can buy [cantenna.com] or build [turnpoint.net] a cantenna. They're illegal...
    A Cantenna is as illegal as a toothbrush...it's all how you use it. There are two things you need to be aware of: FCC regulations on antenna power and Terms of service of the ISP providing the service.

    A Cantenna can hit 500 meters without exceeding FCC regulations and many ISPs allow connection sharing (a business level service plan may be required). Pay the neighbor the difference and you're Dad is set to go.

    Outwardly stating they are illegal is misleading and a disservice to the readers. Get your facts straight or I'll come after you with my toothbrush.
  • by johneee ( 626549 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:09PM (#23508652)
    Linksys (I don't know about others) come with a standard antenna port

    Careful. Not ALL Linksys have antenna ports. Some do, some don't. I just bought one that doesn't. Not a concern for me, but don't buy one online without looking closely expecting them to have ports.
  • Metric shibboleth (Score:2, Informative)

    by tepples ( 727027 ) <tepples.gmail@com> on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:22PM (#23508846) Homepage Journal

    Primestar [...] dishes are abundant here in The States. However, I noticed the author uses the metric system, suggesting he resides elsewhere.
    Expressing a distance in "metres" means you live outside the States. "Meters", on the other hand, means you live in the States and have converted your measurement as a courtesy to those who live outside the States.
  • by Anonymous Coward on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:24PM (#23508876)
    They are bonded. If they did damage, it's straightforward to make them pay for it.
    If they are not bonded, it's straightforward to make them pay for your house.
  • by fishbowl ( 7759 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:28PM (#23508946)
    "He's in a rural area. Permits and right of way access are either not on the books or not enforced in rural areas."

    Is this supposed to be a joke? Or do you really not know just how seriously people (and municipalities) in rural areas take things like property lines and rights of way? I do. I grew up on a farm, in a place where a property owner would have a right to shoot you if you started trenching on his land...
  • Re:Metric shibboleth (Score:3, Informative)

    by Jesus_666 ( 702802 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:29PM (#23508974)
    It just means you live anywhere outside the Commonwealth. Most non-native English speakers use AmE on the internet. Don't assume that only native speakers read Slashdot.
  • by rptally ( 535914 ) * on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:40PM (#23509134)
    $318 WiFi network bridge (HD26200) connects two locations up to 5 miles apart http://www.wirelessnetworkproducts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1899&HS=1 [wirelessne...oducts.com]
  • by kargur ( 1137773 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:41PM (#23509158)
    Something to consider is signal degradation over that distance. I worked a a high speed data cable technician for 3 years before my current job and we always avoided going over 1000 ft. While it is possible to reach 1500 ft, it is likely you would need a powered amp of some sort to make the distance. It is important to note that the amp would need to be at the termination point rather than the serviced house, otherwise you would just be amplifying noise. Also, and more importantly, you need a thick cable. RG6 (standard cable TV cable) will not cut it. You need RG11 and appropriate fittings. This would decrease the signal loss over the distance. Also note that every time you split a cable signal, you lose signal, so making the line strictly for HSD and keeping the TV on the satellite would also increase the chances of a good data connection
  • Re:Proper Antenna (Score:4, Informative)

    by Sique ( 173459 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:45PM (#23509252) Homepage
    The Zillertal Valley in Austria has a 54 MBit/sec WLAN network, that just uses WLAN-antennas on all the mountain tops. The antennas bridge up to 15 mls (25 km), even though they use classic WLAN, just focussed to a beam to the next mountain top. The antennas are mostly from Alvarion [alvarion.com] (ex BreezeCOM).
  • by SpaceLifeForm ( 228190 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:46PM (#23509262)
    As the cat5 ethernet standard says 100 metres distance limitation, 5 times that length is not going to work.
  • by gobbo ( 567674 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:51PM (#23509326) Journal
    I have a bunch of clients in a remote valley (self-generated hydro, radiophones/skype) who are sharing a satellite connection via 802.11b. The setup is simple enough, a vanilla buffalo router connected to a line amp and omni monopole antenna raised 35ft at the highest residence--and at one edge of the reception area. Great. Farthest client is about 2km away across the valley, reception with a small panel antenna OK; worst reception is under the antenna (no surprise) and down the hill towards the river. Nine households and low budget (so setting up 9 direct antenna links too costly).

    My question: would tipping the angle of the antenna towards the reception area improve the take-off angle enough to make a difference? No-one has given me a straight answer on this.

    Anyway, I was surprised at how well this !cheap! system works when they asked me to check it out. It just needs some minor reception adjustments.
  • Re:Do it like Cox. (Score:2, Informative)

    by X0563511 ( 793323 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:55PM (#23509358) Homepage Journal
    Expensive cable testers have some means of "bouncing" a signal down a conductor and measuring the return, using that along with knowing what the conductor is made of, they calculate the distance to the fault. It's quite neat, but unless you've dropped more than $500 on a tester you don't have that option.
  • by thogard ( 43403 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @02:58PM (#23509398) Homepage
    But the sprinkler pipe wasn't labeled on the dig plan was it? A solution to that problem is put some metal locater foil over the sprinkler pipe or just ignore the problem until it gets cut and go out and put a $2 joint over the two bits of pipe with the right glue. I'm guessing the leak is very close to where ground was cut.
  • by Znork ( 31774 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @03:04PM (#23509500)
    For this type of installation it might be simpler and cheaper just getting two smartswitches with mini-gbic or built-in 1000base-LX port. Cheap, consumer-grade stuff with trivial configuration, good for 5km, and using fibre you avoid any possible grounding issues between the houses.
  • by TubeSteak ( 669689 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @03:05PM (#23509522) Journal

    If you do consider this route, get local utilities to locate underground services for you - so that you don't accidentally dig up power/water. You shouldn't - we're talking a foot and a half, but...
    On that same note, how does one go about registering their home made conduit with http://www.call811.com/ [call811.com] (which routes you to your State's "One Call" center)

    And they recommend calling before you do any digging.
    Better safe than sorry.
  • by X0563511 ( 793323 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @03:12PM (#23509638) Homepage Journal
    http://www.aeiwireless.com/ [aeiwireless.com]

    Directional radio or laser is the way to solve this problem. If you build it right, you won't need to maintain it much - the only condition is if something breaks or moves. Again, once everything is sighted, lock it down - to the point of building a box around the thing with only the openings you require.
  • by Thirdsin ( 1046626 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @03:14PM (#23509658)
    Hey sonny... Back in my day we dug trenches many miles long, uphill both ways, in the snow and tumultuous weather! Them days we were layin them there telegraph wires, but the lesson applies!
  • by afidel ( 530433 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @03:14PM (#23509670)
    Probably not. When I worked at Cisco we tested a bunch of stuff out to 150m and most equipment worked even over cat3. However almost none worked at 200m even over cat5e.
  • by Lumpy ( 12016 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @03:18PM (#23509728) Homepage
    You have proof of that? because I have solid proof that it in fact does "work". do I get 100bps? no. but I DO get a connection and I do get data transfer. just not reliably. What the "spec" says and what happen in reality are two very different things.

    I have tried this on two seperate occasions. One worked decently (300m)Util humidity changes caused connection and data loss. Both situations dirt cheap used SDLS modems off ebay solved the issue. in fact one we used 4 SDsl modems and bonded them at the switches and got very close to 25mbps over 300meters.
  • by Ungrounded Lightning ( 62228 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @03:21PM (#23509762) Journal
    We've done 5 mile links with a pair of *old* wallmount AT&T Wavelan bridges and proper antennas on 915 Mhz. Those units were 400mw.

    Such antennas are cheap and small, too. Under $100 in singles at a number of companies with online ordering facilities.

    A 24db skeleton-parabola can get you miles of range even without a high-gain antenna on the other end, and is about the size of a UHF TV antenna. (I know one guy who war-scans the business district of San Francisco with one - from his apartment deck in Berkeley. B-) ) With antennas on both ends you should be able to go with the little lozenge types.

    To give you an idea of range: My Nevada house is about 5 miles from the cell tower where the local WiSP has its POP, with a directional antenna pointed generally my way. His customers normally use a lozenge antenna with built in AP mounted on an outside wall, and I'll probably do that when I sign up (because my computer room is on the far side of the house). But my picture window faces the tower and my laptop catches the ID beacon just fine sitting in my lap using the builtin antenna.

    So for a half-mile putting an AP in each attic and even a low-gain external antenna on the roof or outside wall should do the job just fine.

    Want a cheap do-it-yourself high-gain directional antenna? Get a big wok strainer (woks and their strainers are pretty good parabolas), put a USB-stick WiFI adapter on a USB extension cord, and mount it with its backside at the focus of the strainer. B-)
  • by cjb658 ( 1235986 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @03:27PM (#23509850) Journal
    What exactly was unreliable? Would it crash and have to be rebooted? Did it drop packets or introduce high latency?

    The only problem I have with it is that its QOS controls don't seem to work. When I run BitTorrent and eMule and play CS, my pings still go to shit. (And I've increased the maximum number of established connectios to 4096 so that's not the issue.)
  • 500mW Signal Booster at both ends ($57 each)
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833130039 [newegg.com]

    Two 19 dBi directional outdoor antennas ($82 each)
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833980012 [newegg.com]

    Various Cabling:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812146013 [newegg.com]
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833164143 [newegg.com]

    Two WRT54GL's ($60 each) to be equipped with Linux firmware (recommend DD-WRT)
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124190 [newegg.com]

    I'm sure there will be all sorts of adapters (M to F and TNC to N-type) needed, so plan on making several batches of purchases before you go to the site. Also disable the unused antenna in DD-WRT.
  • by LehiNephi ( 695428 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @03:38PM (#23510024) Journal
    A couple years ago I was looking to do something similar. A bit of research shows that it's actually fairly easy to do, and with remarkably long ranges. Pretty much anything roughly parabolic will do, and a satellite dish is a great way to start. Here's a post with several useful links: http://www.seattlewireless.net/pipermail/dev/2003-June/012784.html [seattlewireless.net]
  • by iamhassi ( 659463 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @03:47PM (#23510180) Journal
    Wow this is getting expensive! Renting equipment, hiring contractors... just diy long distance wifi [slashdot.org]

    don't people google anymore before asking /.? This has even been on /. before [slashdot.org].
  • WildBlue? (Score:3, Informative)

    by ProfessionalCookie ( 673314 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @03:48PM (#23510194) Journal
    Umm WildBlue is hardly a solution. 1200ms ping times...let me rephrase that 1.2 second ping times and low usage quotas (7.5GB/mo) make it a non-starter. Wireless to a neighbor's should be really easy with a pair or directional antennas- you could even throw a parabolic behind a rubber ducky and hit 300 meters at 11mbit- I've done it over 2km at 100mw tx power.

    You might have a look at Engenius's outdoor APs [engeniustech.com]. A pair of EOC-3220s should work well. Cheaper than most outdoor gear, supports POE, stable (at least mine has been rock solid, I have the external antenna version). And it support bridging natively!

    Cheers,
  • by meatspray ( 59961 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @04:00PM (#23510396) Homepage
    Single-mode is the long haul stuff, not multi-mode.

    You need:
    1. Power at both ends of the line
    2. a ditch with conduit
    3. a spool of single-mode
    4. a professional with the tools to terminate the ends of the fiber
    5. two single mode to ethernet media converters, http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/default.aspx?EDC=884092 [cdw.com]
  • by Anonymous Coward on Thursday May 22, 2008 @04:20PM (#23510666)
    ...and don't forget to pull a spare length of pull-string with the cable!

    New capacity, repairs, new technology (fiber?), etc. There's not much more frustrating than having to completely redo a good cable run 10 years down the road because someone neglected to pull a spare strand of string.

    Also, responding to someone further up, just because you aren't required by code to bury your conduit 18" or more doesn't mean it's not a really good idea to do so. When someone decides to develop the acreage next door and the concrete trucks break up your cable in multiple spots, or it's so shallow that you dig into it planting trees, you won't be happy camper.
  • by Tomun ( 144651 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @04:35PM (#23510838)
    Or you can do it yourself for $318 [boingboing.net]
  • by Anonymous Coward on Thursday May 22, 2008 @04:41PM (#23510922)
    even better than buying all the fancy antennas: http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html [turnpoint.net]
  • by Anonymous Coward on Thursday May 22, 2008 @04:49PM (#23511038)
    As an independent consultant, I have used the kit found here here [radiolabs.com] to link 2 offices through aproximately 500 feet of thick underbrush in situations where right of ways could not be obtained for burying cable. Setup of the routers takes about 5 minutes.
  • by Anonym1ty ( 534715 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @04:59PM (#23511154) Homepage Journal

    Amplifying wifi signals is pretty much always a bad idea, because the signal is two-way. It's like having a conversation with someone far away - if you have a megaphone they can hear you, but no matter how loud your megaphone is, you still won't be able to hear them.

    However, if you have a point-to-point wireless link with the same amplification on both ends, it can be useful. Don't overuse it though, as too much amplification will distort the signal, and disrupt other people's attempts to use nearby frequencies (even pretty far away).
    But if you put your megaphone up to your ear, you can hear them.... Hence the amplifiers are bi-directional
  • by Anonymous Coward on Thursday May 22, 2008 @05:22PM (#23511458)

    Amplifying wifi signals is pretty much always a bad idea, because the signal is two-way. It's like having a conversation with someone far away - if you have a megaphone they can hear you, but no matter how loud your megaphone is, you still won't be able to hear them.
    Yes and no. Using a transmission amplifier alone will indeed lead to such problems. However there are reciever pre-amplifiers which go between antenna and reciever and will increase range from a weaker transmitter. To stay inside your analogy, when a transmission amplifier is a megaphone, then a reciever pre-amp is a parabolic microphone with amplifier.

    Don't overuse [amplification] though, as too much amplification will distort the signal, and disrupt other people's attempts to use nearby frequencies (even pretty far away).
    If you use a well built amplifier inside the power range it was built for then no, it won't distort anything. Only badly made amplifiers do that, and they will likely do it even below ther max power.

    However, one might indeed disturb users on the freuquency one uses and on neighbouring frequencies, as strong signal handling might not be that good in your average WiFi-reciever. But you can avoid problems simply by starting with zero amplification and then turning it up until a stable link is achieved and then maybe a bit more to be on the safe side, but no more than that. this will minimize interference with other users.

    An aside: If you bild setups with directional antenna and amplification than do familiarize yourself with microwafe safety precautions. A focused beam on 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz microwafes can severely hurt your eyes or even blind you if you look directly into it. (It prettymuch cooks the protein inside your eyes, just like a microwafe oven would). At the very least, mount it high enough that noone can stand in front of the antenna and look directly into it.
  • by Z00L00K ( 682162 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @05:27PM (#23511516) Homepage Journal
    The pressure that a shop vac can issue is limited by physics - you have a pressure of 1 atmosphere and a vacuum cleaner can only decrease that by a fraction.

    A compressor on the other hand that's blowing air has no problem blowing more than an atmosphere pressure. And in a 500m pipe that can make a huge difference.

  • by willy_me ( 212994 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @05:53PM (#23511870)
    Cables are generally run using a "Ditch WItch" or some other piece of trenching equipment. You can rent them just about anywhere and they can finish a 500m job in a couple of hours.
  • by jurgen ( 14843 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @06:42PM (#23512310)
    Wireless links with plain old 802.11 have been done over FAR longer distances (over 10km is common and I've seen links over 40km) with simple directional antennas. What's much more important than distance is line-of-sight. Basically if you can see the other antenna without a telescope, you can connect to it. However, there must NOT be any trees in between, even if you can see the other antenna in the gaps of the foliage. Trees are very good radio-wave shields. (Actually, water is the shield, but like all living things, trees are full of water.)

    If you do not have line of sight from the ground, try the roof. If you still don't your next option would be to build a mast. You can make a mast up to 10 or 12m cheaply by telescoping several pieces of steel pipe and bracing the whole thing with 3 steel cables. I have a 9m mast like this that I built for about $100.

    Make sure to get a router with antennas that you can disconnect and replace (not all have those, but many do). Then connect a directional antenna... for 500m you don't need anything fancy, the cheapest directional antenna you can buy or a home-made "cantenna" will do just fine.

    Same for the other end of the connection... if you don't want to put a router on both ends, make sure your wifi card has an antenna connector. Or you can use a USB wifi adapter with a "stub" antenna, and stick that little stub directly into a "cantenna" type can (you'll need to calculate the position of the hole for the antenna... there are calculators for this on the net, google "cantenna calculator"). That will turn a little $25 USB dongle into a directional Wifi powerhouse, using nothing but a can with hole drilled in the right place! I've gotten a strong connection over 1km between two of those and I'm sure it could have gone much further but we didn't try because 1km was enough.

    For your short distance of 500m, given line of sight, you may even be able to get away with a directional antenna only on one end, and the regular omni antenna on the other. I.e. if you have window-to-window sight, you may be able to put an unmodified router on the windowsill of one house and a usb-dongle-cantenna on a windowsill of the other and have your link.

    Good luck! :j

  • Use DSL (Score:3, Informative)

    by CohibaVancouver ( 864662 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @07:17PM (#23512590)
    I had a similar problem at a ski resort - The distance was too 'far' for CAT5, and Wireless / Fiber was too difficult due to weather and cost. I wound up using a couple of "Tut Systems" DSL ethernet bridge boxes, hooked together with about 750 meters of cat 5. Worked like a charm.

    Here's the kind of boxes I'm talking about:

    http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190224334652 [cgi.ebay.ca]

  • by conureman ( 748753 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @08:25PM (#23513046)
    Plowing, eh? Sounds efficient. Can't seem to get Spear&Jackson shovels here anymore. I guess 'murkins aren't supposed to dig trenches by hand. (I should move.) The standard for High Voltage is four feet deep, keeps it a bit safer than 18". Low Voltage or Fiber, the onus is on you. I did 400' of four-inch conduit four foot deep by hand once. Last time, I went with the ditch-witch. Found a sewer line with that. (I knew it was there but the contractor who buried it said it was too deep to worry about, and would not mark it for me. Schmuck.) Once you lay the conduit you can use a shop-vac to blow a cotton puff or a rag with a thread tied to it, to pull a fatter string, then your signal element through the conduit. IIRC Cat-5e is usable for 100 meters. Personally, I'd use fiber or try to engineer a wireless solution. If you run a 18 or 20 ga. copper wire alongside in your trench, the finder guy from the utilities can use it for his signal to mark the location for you. I think orange is the color code for communications, it doesn't matter much.
  • by zippthorne ( 748122 ) on Thursday May 22, 2008 @08:55PM (#23513246) Journal
    And.. with your extra-directional antenna and boosted signal, you fried someone?

    I mean.. You did consult the FCC tables for uncontrolled exposure at 2.4 GHz when setting up your little science project, right?

    Of course you did. Or they wouldn't have approved your license request to run an experimental, (i.e. modified to no longer be type-accepted), (and ERP>1W ) setup in the 2.4 GHz band.
  • dammit, I wrote a long reply, but my browser crashed. That's what I get for using Windows on occasion. :)

        Yes, I consulted the charts, and even did the math myself to confirm that the charts were right. :)

        a 20mw transmitter and 24dBi antenna puts it .5dBm below the FCC max for a point to multipoint application. Since this was point to point, they have higher tolerances, which still is fine.

        Now, my 200mw transmitter with the 24dBi antenna is a wee bit against FCC rules in theory, but with loss in the cables, it may just be at the limit.

        Since they were very directional antennas, it was a fairly safe bet they'd never notice anyways. Sitting behind either antenna, I could hear the signal (encrypted, of course). Standing on the ground immediately under the antenna, still with a clear view of the remote side, I couldn't detect it, nor anything at that particular frequency. I even did that with the 200mw transmitter and a 4.5dBi antenna. Only being maybe 15 feet or so below the real antenna was enough to be outside of the beam of the more diverse antenna.

  • by djohnso ( 1294324 ) on Friday May 23, 2008 @01:38AM (#23514522)
    There are some nice instructions on how to do this here: http://www.jawug.za.net/ [za.net] just click on How-to's. It is well explained with pictures (for dummies like me)
  • by mikhailitsky ( 1242758 ) on Friday May 23, 2008 @03:35AM (#23514862)
    You can boost the range of your wifi router/card by using an external antenna. The simplest option for you would be to construct a couple of antennas out of cans. The whole thing will cost you a couple of bucks and will be more than enough to cover 500 meters (I used such antennas for 3-km long links, and it worked like a charm). Hit Google with 'cantenna' to get more info on the subjet. If you decide to go this way, make sure your wifi card and router are equipped with detachable antennas so that you can hook an external one.

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