Cleaning Your Mice Wheels? 89
frink_exp asks: "Cleaning mouse balls (and the rollers they contact) has been the source of many a pun and the subject of countless junk e-mail messages. As more optical mice replace their mechanical kin, such hygiene is becoming unnecessary. However, the mouse wheel is nearly as common as the mouse itself and human hands are grubby, sweaty, oily appendages. Invariably, a nice coating of gunk envelops the wheel. Sometimes it's just unsightly, but at it's worst, it'll sap the rubber wheel of all its grip making it difficult to scroll. Cleaning the wheel can be awkward as it tends to spin and unlike mouse balls, it doesn't just pop out (rehashing of the balls joke intended). The best method I've found is scraping sideways, parallel to the wheel's axis of rotation, slowly working my way around the whole wheel. This is tedious and annoying. Is this a common affliction? What is a better, easier way to clean the mouse wheel? Solvents? A wheel brush? Fire?"
Sorry, man (Score:5, Funny)
Re:Sorry, man (Score:3, Interesting)
I know the parent got modded as a troll and it could have been worded a little more kindly, but geez, it's true! As a consultant I've had thousands of client companies some with thousands of users and right now I'm working for an ~200 user company and I've never seen a dirty mouse wheel unless it was in an environment that was already pretty grubby (e.g. machine-shop).
So
Re:Sorry, man (Score:5, Interesting)
Here's the justification... In quantity, I can get pretty good optical mice for less than $10/each.
If I buy a cases of them at a time, I get identical mice.. i.e. I do not need to change any setups when I changeout mice.
Time is money. If these mice are getting dirty because people are busy doing something grimey and don't practice good computer hygiene, look how much you are paying the guy to stop what he's doing and try to pamper the mouse. There is no way on God's Green Earth I am going to face some machinist and demand he wash before he uses the machine. I consider it MY job to find the proper equipment so he can do HIS job. The way I see it, I derive my pay from the end customer, who is most likely buying the product the machinist made, not me! I support the machinist - it should not be beholden on him to support me.
This reminds me when I was a brand spanking new engineer on my first job at Chevron Oil Company. I designed a nifty little circuit tester for the mechanics to verify tank gauge readings with. They had it one day. At the end of the day, they brought me back my tester. In a bag. There were not many parts still connected to another anymore. They never got a chance to use it. It did not survive the trip to the job site in the back of the pickup truck, in the toolbox with all the other oilman tools, over rough terrain, to the job site. It taught me a damm good lesson. The next tester I sent to them had a lot better mechanical design - this one would take a ride in a pickup truck bed along with wrenches so heavy I could barely lift ( much less use ). And take submersion in mud, oil, or whatever, and take well to cleaning by being held under a venting steam trap.
Not in my wildest imaginations as a College student did I realize what the men in the field went through, and how they had to improvise using what they had on hand right then to get the job done. Anyone could do it, given infinite time, and catalog in hand, but an experienced mechanic would do things just right in ways I never would have considered. Just one day in the field with those guys gave me a whole different outlook on my relationship with what the company did. I consider them the most hardworking, intelligent, and no-bullshit folks I have ever had the pleasure of working with.
If you can't design the mice so they take well to the job, just plan on replacing them. About the last thing you want to do is mess up the people who are making the products that are sold to provide for your paycheck.
"The Field" (Score:4, Insightful)
WAY back when, starting during the Summer between HS and college, and continuing through college, I worked building and putting up crane systems. You know, the kind that looks like a moving bridge that you see in movies all the time
Man, that job was rough on men and equipment. The joke is, as rough as that job was, my next job required me to build stuff for the military. There is an expression - "Grunt Proof". The average "Grunt" is a heck of a lot smarter than folks give him credit for. It's just that he's living outdoors, has to lug around everything, is in a rough environment, and given a choice between carrying two tools that do one job each (perfectly), or one tool that does two jobs "well enough", that weighes 1/2 as much, he'll take the 1 tool, and some more ammo - as the ammo will keep him alive. Kinda makes it hard on your gear, as they will figure out how to break things that you never thought of
Re:"The Field" (Score:5, Interesting)
When I showed the remains of my tester to my supervisor, I remember him looking at it, then at me, and chuckling... and him telling me that that was strike one. Maybe I had better go to the machine shop and have one of those guys show me how its done at Chevron - you aren't in College anymore. I did. The next incarnation looked more like a tank than a piece of test equipment. The most expensive assembly in the whole thing was the case! I ended up using 50AMP switches to control milliamps. Not for current - but because of mechanical considerations. And the electronics were no longer designed for serviceability - they were now designed to last as long as possible in a very hostile environment. It was a lot cheaper to build another electronics package than to have one fail in use. So I ended up encapsulating the whole digitizer/display in a big lucite block ( like those paperweights you see stuff embedded in ) with four wires coming out of it. The case was a modified industrial explosion-proof housing, and the connectors were those huge oversized connectors used on welding rigs, with the connector holes going right through the case, so that in the event you dropped it in the muck below ( very probable ) you could pick it back up, hold it under the steam trap when it vented and blow the muck back off the device. And yes, you could plug a welding lead in it and use it as a test lead if you had to. The big 50 AMP switch turned the box on, off, or connected the input leads in such a manner as to charge its internal battery off the truck battery by "measuring" the truck battery. And it had very powerful magnets on the back to hold it to against the tank.
About the steam trap: Because heavy oils get so viscous when cold, they keep the pipes hot by bundling them with steam pipes under a sheath of insulation. But in the process of keeping the oil hot, the steam condenses back to water. Steam traps are gravitically operated valves which detect a buildup of water in the line and periodically open and vent the water out. They are very common on piping around heavy-oil processing.
We are talking about some really thick black sticky goo here - and lots of it. In the event of a problem, the goo may well be in places it shouldn't be. So, it was entirely likely that there be goo all over the place when trying to fix the problem. And its outside. And its cold. And its in the middle of the night. And its blowing rain. And forget papers, the wind's blowing rain around like all getout. And the mess is getting worse by the minute until you find and fix whatever broke.
I remember well my day in the field - I came all prepared with drawings. And all my engineering goodies. The first thing that happened was a big gust of rainy wind sent my entire book of drawings across the tank farm with gusto. The book binding snapped apart on the first strike onto the ground, while the individual pages, now free, scattered within seconds, over several miles of muddy terrain. All the stuff which served me so nicely in the lab was gone within minutes.. I think the lead pencil was all that really survived. It was me against the elements now. It seemed only nature could design anything to survive against this. If you didn't wear heavy protective clothing, you were soon so cold you could not feel a thing. If you did, you were so cumbersome that there was no way you were going to adjust any little knob or find the hole to plug the lead into, or not break the lead even if you did succeed in getting it in the little hole.
Ever try to hold anything with big heavy greasy gl
Re:"The Field" (Score:1)
Mister, that is a damn fine story. Thanks for sharing.
methinks... (Score:1)
Re:Sorry, man (Score:1)
When I started riding on the ambulance vollenteer, I noticed that these things were throw around, tossed on the ground, used to support body weight... All things they were never designed to do. In the field they use what they have available to them at the time.
If it's not designed for the job, plan on replacing them often.
Anubi - Great thinking process about who should
grubby environments (Score:2)
When I picked the machine up and set it on the counter, the whole thing was pitch black, except for 2 nice, clean hand prints
Re:grubby environments (Score:2)
I had to do a cable run at mothers cookies in Oakland a few years back. It ran from the main business office, to the baking warehouse.
Now if you've never been inside an industrial assembly line bakery before, it's mind blowing stuff. They dump 50 gallon oil drums of butter/flour/sugar into mixers bigger than a U-Haul Van. Imagine ovens that are 10 feet wide, a football field long, with a conveyer belt running through it.
Well it's while the dough tr
Re:Sorry, man (Score:1)
Well, I *used* to have the same problem... (Score:2, Interesting)
While I am certainly not proud of the aforementioned habit, that is not
Re:Well, I *used* to have the same problem... (Score:1, Funny)
Quick and easy (Score:1)
Once you crack the thing open there'll be a lot of crud caked on the rollers, but it usually comes off quite readily once you swab it with alcohol. If you want to be thorough, wear latex gloves and be sure to clean the ball off, too.
Re:Quick and easy (Score:1)
Re:AAAAAAAAAH! (Score:1)
Worst... Ask Slashdot... EVAR!
Anyway, to be on-topic... I agree with those that post about getting a new mouse.
I've never had a problem with scroll wheels, although they still give us mechanical mice at work. I have to clean the rollers in it pretty regularly. Pencil eraser to scrub the stuff off, and then shake the gunk out...
Open It Up (Score:5, Insightful)
Re:Open It Up (Score:2)
Re:Open It Up (Score:2)
Hint: one of the screws on Logitech mice is usually covered by a label. Peel the label back to get at that last screw.
Problem with that... (Score:2)
Always wash your hands before use. (Score:5, Funny)
Go wash your hands immediately, you naughty naughty boy. *smack* How many times must I tell you not to handle your balls with dirty hands?
Um, yea. Same goes for the scroll wheel, too.
I have the same problems. (Score:1)
Just take it apart (Score:4, Informative)
There's a spring pushing the wheel up, so take a moment to figure out how the wheel is lodged onto the spring and plastic parts before taking the actual wheel out.
Scrape the dirt off the wheel or wash it or whatever you like and pop it back in. Put the cover back on, the screws, and voila, clean mouse wheel.
Of course, if you have an optical mouse, you might want to unplug it or turn off the computer before looking for the screws on the mouse bottom...
Re:Just take it apart (Score:2)
{Arnold_voice}My eyes! The goggles do nothing!{/Arnold_voice}
Electronic cleaner/degreaser... (Score:2)
Just make sure it's the stuff that evaporates 100% or the problem will be worse.
Watch out for old mice. (Score:4, Informative)
The x-acto that many people described is fine for modern mice. (I prefer to hold the knife at just shy of a right angle to the of the roller, and the blade at a right angle to the roller surface, and scrape along the length of the roller. Do this with the blade at a right angle or slightly tilted BACKWARDS; never cut into the roller!)
But look out for some of the older steel mice, such as on the Xerox Alto or earlier Symbolics Lispms. Those can be seriously damaged by x-actos. From Peter Payne's FAQ:
HERE - DO THIS! (Score:1, Offtopic)
Take a strong paper towel and get it moist with 90+% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Remove the ball and use your finger wrapped up inside the paper towel to rub the wheels, as you say, parallel to axis. It'll all come off in a jif.... gif.... whatever.
90% isopropyl is about as close to solvents as you want to get around PC parts. It'll remove any crud you got in there, and it won't damage the parts any..... probably.
Re:HERE - DO THIS! (Score:1)
Damn you! (Score:1)
why? (Score:1)
Get a Mouse Stick (Score:1)
Re:Get a Mouse Stick (Score:1)
Hmm... (Score:1)
In my experience, everyone calls those "nipples".
Nope (Score:1)
My solution (Score:1)
Wow a timely topic (Score:2)
scrape side to side
And here I was buying new mice all this time.
Solvents? A wheel brush? Fire? (Score:1)
Easy Fix (Score:1)
pun (Score:2)
Oh, puny puns...
Easy. (Score:2)
The same way you clean the heads on your tape deck. Rubbing alcohol and Q-tips.
Re:Easy. (Score:2)
Ive never had this problem. (Score:5, Funny)
Make sure you feed it diversely and allow it a good level of exercise and it will retain a good coat and healthy other-body-parts. I'm really not sure of other suggestions here of popping the ball out and scrubbing with knives. I could never suggest that.
They're all lying. (Score:3, Funny)
Make sure you do it outdoors, though. You'd hate for the nitrogen fire containment system to go off.
Best thing ive found" (Score:2)
What kind of "wheel"? (Score:1)
I use my fingernail and tweezers.
Field Replaceable Mouse Balls Joke (Score:5, Funny)
ESD Product service support subject: New Retain tip
Abstract: Mouse balls now available as FRU (Field Replaceable Unit)
Text:
Mouse balls are now available as a FRU. If a mouse fails to operate, or should perform erratically, it may be in need of ball replacement. Because of the delicate nature of this procedure, replacement of mouse balls should be attempted by trained personnel only.
Before ordering, determine type of mouse balls required by examining the underside of each mouse. Domestic balls will be larger and harder than foreign balls. Ball removal procedures differ, depending upon manufacturer of the mouse. Foreign balls can be replaced using the pop-off method, and domestic balls replaced using the twist-off method. Mouse balls are not usually static sensitive, however, excessive handling can resutlt in sudden discharge. Upon completion of ball replacement, the mouse may be used immediately.
It is recommended that each servicer have a pair of balls for maintaining optimum customer satisfaction, and that any customer missing his balls should suspect local personnel of removing thes necessary functional items
(Copy typed from the rec.hummor.funny [netfunny.com] archive. Typos are mine, the origonal posting was in all caps, which does not pas the Lameness filter)
dip the entire mouse (Score:2)
Use a push button instead of a wheel? (Score:2)
I'm afraid I don't have a solution for your cleaning problem, but I do have a suggestion for future purchases. There are a number of companies (logitech kensington ect) that are doing mice with a push/pull button instead of a wheel for scrolling - a sort of 2 directional nub. This will make the parts that get dirty more accessable.
Though I havn't tried it (try at your own risk) you might even try coating the nub w/ some sort of non stick coating for easier cleaning. Clear nail polish? plastic fixative?
Much easier, and more thorough... (Score:1)
Even the Opticals need some cleaning (Score:2)
Re:Even the Opticals need some cleaning (Score:1)
Re:Even the Opticals need some cleaning (Score:2)
Replace it. (Score:2, Informative)
Back in the day when I had a ball-mouse, I used to just pop open the bottom compartment, remove the ball, and scrape the rollers with my fingernail while slowly rotating the roller. I'd do that for all 3 rollers. If the ball was dirty, I'd w
Re:Replace it. (Score:2)
Dishwasher. (Score:4, Funny)
Re:Dishwasher. (Score:2)
Parallel? (Score:2)
The Ask Slashdot pool must be running really low these days for something as stupid as this to be posted.
Re:Parallel? (Score:1)
>The Ask Slashdot pool must be running really low these days for something as stupid as this to be posted.
That, however, I agree with...
Morons.... (Score:2)
My home mouse doesn't have a problem with the wheel, but at work, many different people use a machine in a week, and I've seen wheels that no longer can be turned. I haven't done it, but I'm sure soaking it in alcohol and scrubbing it with a brush would fix the problem.
Another solution: clean your hands, filthy pig. 6 hours of Quake 3 makes some nasty grim coe out of your hands. Was
Interval? (Score:2)
Mice are pretty easy to clean though, the exacto solution mentioned above works well. Keyboard can be more of a pain. If you're the type who sometimes *gasp* snacks at the keyboard especially (little crumbs between ke
Re:Interval? (Score:2)
Mouse balls?! (Score:2)
Two products that I swear by.... (Score:3, Informative)
When I had to do desktop support, I always carried these with me.
Here's what I like to do: (Score:1)
Once I get comfortable I pull out my mouse cleaning toolkit that contains cleansers, brushes, scrapers, and discombobulaters that I've acquired over the years for this specific task. I typically spend about an hour sanitizing and boiling these tools before I begin operation: clean the mouse. Thanks to optical mice, I have cut this procedure down by about 3 hours, although I still reserve about 9 hours to do this properly.
With all the
Re:Here's what I like to do: (Score:1)
Mouse cleaning device !!!!! (Score:2)
Amazing (Score:1)
I treat my peripherals like crap, because keyboards are cheap and plentiful, and my 1st gen logitech optical mouse has a 5-year warranty for another year and a half or so. In this 3.5 year period, I've gone through 3 or 4 keyboards due to spilling drinks and random gunk into them. I do wash my hands when I go to the bathroom, but beyond that I'm pretty unhygienic with regards to computer stuff.
If this pro
An actual idea (Score:3, Informative)
I usually use isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs to clean off dirty peripherals. This not only cleans the equipment very well, but gives the room an aroma that suggests you might be doing something important.
Rotating the swab while running it perpendicular to the mouse wheel seems to work best. Get a different swab often, however, or you'll just wind up depositing more gunk back on the wheel.
Hope this helps!
~Mike
What I really want to know is keyboard cleaning... (Score:2)
Now keyboards, I'd like to know how to clean quickly. Especially laptop keyboards...those are pretty inconvenient to replace at work and at home.
very last post, I win again! (Score:1)