Ideas for a Multipurpose Garage Workshop? 55
WTFmonkey asks: "Having looked at several woodworking websites and magazines, I've got some good ideas for the woodworking part of my planned shop. Sadly, I can't find any shop ideas specific to electronics and computer repair. What is considered essential for a good workbench? Dinner-table height or counter-top height (I'm 6'2"), and what is an adequate depth? Lighting strategies, handy equipment, organization issues? To put it succinctly, what are the most comfortable and effective benches you've worked at, and why?"
One tip.. (Score:4, Insightful)
Re:One tip.. (Score:3, Informative)
I like a good maple bench top is the best, think shop class pre-90's.
Re:One tip.. (Score:4, Informative)
Rubber is an insolator which means that static can't disopate, anti static bags have conductive stripes or surfaces to help conduct static away from sensitive parts, if you buy a real anti static mat you will find that it has a conector to gound the pad an remove any static. Using an insolator is a common mistake that should be avoided. Anti static mats are one option and the fact that they are soft allows one to press on boards for cutting and stops small parts from sliding or blowing away. Professional setups usually have some sort of masonite top and then an antistaic mat with grounding points for both.
Other that that, lots of electrical outlets is a must bolting down a few outlet strips works well escpecially if you can find the industrial sort where plugs are a few inches part, nothing sucks worse than having six outlets but only being able to use 3 because the plus and transformers are too wide and block outlets on either side.
Most people seem to prefer the raised workbench, but that requires a raised chair
I prefer a normal height table with as much depth a away from the wall, a few items like osilicopes, bench supplies and a PC take up a lot of space and while you don't touch them that often you still want them within reach, ossilicopes are ussually pretty long.
Some sort of tool holder is important, for screwdrivers, dental picks, pens, and all the little tools that you need to keep handy.
Lots of space is needed so you can leave out data sheets, manuals etc.. I have had good luck with two tables in a corner and a pivoting chair so that you can have as much stuff within arms reach as possible.
Re:One tip.. (Score:1)
I find when building computers that sitting at a chair limits me too much, as I must keep standing up to reach parts of the chassis or other tools/parts. I find that the easiest setup is a desk with anti-static matting, roughly 3' from the ground. A deep desk is good for fitting all the parts and the chassis on, and if you can get to all four sides of the desk then testing becomes a little easier. Power sockets all over the
Think about what you're going to do... (Score:2, Informative)
> repair. What is considered essential for a good workbench?
Think about what you're going to do on this workbench, where you're going to
want to place things, and what you need as a result. For example, you will
very likely want to be able to slap a motherboard tray on there and have a
place to stick drives and a PSU where the cables can reach. Little shelves
for the drives maybe. Similarly, you're going to want a place to put a
Re:Think about what you're going to do... (Score:1)
No, no, no. Conductive is your friend. You want static dissipation. Having a nice and grounded table is good.
Re:Think about what you're going to do... (Score:1)
You don't want to short things out. Having a nice ground handy would be good,
but you don't want the whole bench to conduct current, especially the surface.
height? Neither (Score:2)
Re:height? Neither (Score:2, Interesting)
What are you standing on? (Score:1)
I recommend at least a piece of plywood on the floor in colder climates. I like the Epoxy floor covering for clean-up .
I prefer carpet (Score:2)
Workbenches (Score:4, Insightful)
Here are some pointers (Score:2)
For the height, first pick your chair. I like roll-around stools so I need a high bench height. Pick your chair, sit in it, measure from the floor to about 2-3 inches above your lap. Thats the bottom height. If you're doing electronics and need to use a microscope (don't laugh, I do), you'll have to take that into consideration.
As to the d
Re:Here are some pointers (Score:1)
I would buy the sheet at your local lumber yard, if they will cut it to the size you want with their panel saw. Countersink a couple of drywall screws in the corners and done.
Be a real geek! (Score:2)
Re:Be a real geek! (Score:2)
Phone, electrical, LAN (Score:1)
I like non-halogen bulbs on goosenecks on my work table, and regular light bulbs in enameled metal lamp shades above my head. I don't have as much flickering of light.
I would recommend an ogg/mp3 jukebox with a tv tuner card to watch The Gr
Re:Phone, electrical, LAN (Score:1)
-Proud Eagles Fan
Re:Phone, electrical, LAN (Score:1)
Cheers!
Re:Phone, electrical, LAN (Score:1)
What I use for repair (Score:5, Insightful)
First thing: get yourself an anti-static countertop. If you poke around, you may find that it'll cost you basically as much to get a decent anti-static counter as to get a halfway decent metal or laminated wood area. Static isn't a huge deal where I live (my part of Texas is humid enough that I never even bother at the house), but it is nice to have, particularly if you are in an area dry enough to worry about it. I actually prefer a countertop over a desk-height area, with a nice bar-stool height rolling chair. I'd go for flourescent lighting for power consumption, and get a good pull-down incandescent (the hooked sort that have a semi-retractable cable to take them up out of the way when not needed) for when I really need some brightness.
Get a large file cabinet. Fill one drawer with a big-ass, multi-tier toolbox with the assorted big 'n' small screwdrivers, nut drivers, pliers, dremel bits, etc. that you need. Get one of those small, sectioned tackle organizers designed for small hooks, flys, etc. Use it to compartmentalize your screws of different size and type. Fill another drawer with large capacity file dividers (the big, say, 2" sort), and fill those file dividers with anti-static bags with spare components (the assorted video, LAN, RAM, etc. that you might use for trouble shooting). Get some of the gallon-size freezer bags and use them to organize your cables. Unless it's something very non-prone to tangling (IDE ribbons, for example), stow each cable in its own bag. File these.
Get a cheap CRT, a keyboard with zero "grandma" buttons, and a basic, 2button + scroll optical mouse. If possible, have both KB and mouse use USB with PS/2 adapters, that way you're set for whatever randomness comes onto your bench. Get a cheap set of speakers (but make sure they're powered units). Run these into a KVM switch, and have a throwaway old machine with a big-ass hard drive in it for when you need to dump everything off for whatever reason (or preferably, have a file server and never have to worry). Get a cheap 10/100 hub (not switch) for checking LAN functionality and for the occasional time when you might want to sniff packets coming off of a machine you're troubleshooting. Oh, and order a notebook IDE->full-size IDE adapter. You never know when you might need one, and although they cost next to nothing, I never seem to be able to find a local vendor that carries them. If you're planning on, I don't know, tinkering with the neighbors machines for the hell of it (God help you), I'd tell you to snag a cheap PCI IDE card with a couple of controllers, for those times when you need to pop a drive in to pull some data off or check whether the problem is drive, board, or cable.
If you're the type of person who tends to work on a lot of things at a time, just pick-up a wire rack shelf to have some place to stow projects while you work on them.
Note: A lot of this applies to the fact that I work on other people's machines day in, day out. I don't have anyhting near this level at the house, but if I were going to build a small workshop anyway, the costs for equipment mentioned here would be in line with what I'd expect to spend.
Re:What I use for repair (Score:2)
Re:What I use for repair (Score:1)
I do keep some around for repairs, but it's generally a non-issue. 9 times out of 10, I simply refuse to repair or upgrade anything with AT, since it basically means "old crap that's not worth the time I'll sink into it trying to get some random PCI USB card to actually work".
Work Bench ... (Score:2)
at least 1 switch above the bench, I would put a small one (4 port) below as well.
cable holes on either end of the bench, and prolly on in the middle (along the back of it obviously) to string up a monitor/keyboard/mouse.
A good desktop computer with various removable media (zip, cd-rw, diskette, etc...), so that you can get drivers from the internet to whatever your working on. LCD monitor on a swing arm. Wireless keyboard and a trackball for a mouse (
Re:Work Bench ... (Score:2, Informative)
Best bench ever! (Score:1)
Well for a budget anyway.
Work Bench (put in your zip for the price and details... 98022 works if yours doesnt) [lowes.com]
Just hang power strips and cables and tools on the peg board. 15" crt on the top on either side and a couple cheap KVMs and you can service 4 towers on this thing at once.
I have used these in my business and other companies I have worked at before for years.
Re:Best bench ever! (Score:2)
You must have: (Score:1, Interesting)
-TV. If you want it (sports?) Not a must-have though
-Stable box. You can play your MP3s from it. Use for downloading drivers, etc
-Generic K, V, & M. Nothing with special drivers. USB and PS2 for the K and M sound good
-KVM Switch. Go from your stable box to whatever your playing with. Put the cable in an easily accessible place
-Outlets. Can never have too many
-Light. Can never have too much, IMO
Just remember what YOU find comfortabl
Are you willing to build one? (Score:3, Interesting)
Make sure the bench is not too deep. Deep benches accumulate more clutter and it's too difficult to reach the back to retrieve things. Sit down and reach across a table; the depth you can reach to is how deep the bench should be.
A bench is most useful when you can use it sitting down or standing up. So make the bench high and get a stool, rather than making it the height of a desk and using a desk chair.
Powerpoints! Lots of powerpoints, each with their own indicator light and switch. These need to be off the bench and within arms reach.
A grip (ie, a vice) on a movable arm. This can be mounted to the side of the bench, just so long as the arm reaches to where you work.
A shelf about 1 foot above the bench to hold all your test equipment, power supplies, etc. It must be within arm's reach so not too deep and not too high.
A flouro just below the shelf to illuminate the whole bench. Make it bright. Put a thin strip of wood in front (attached to the shelf) so the flouro doesn't shine in your eyes.
A second much brighter lamp on a movable arm (eg, halogen). Attach it to the shelf to keep the bench space clear.
A vertical rod coming out of the bench, off to one side, to hold spools of your most commonly used wires, solder, etc. About a foot long is all you need.
Attach a raised lip (about 1cm high) around the entire bench. There's nothing worse than crawling around the floor trying to find tiny pieces that rolled off the bench.
A kickback across the back of the bench. Same idea as the lip but go all the way up to the shelf. It stops tools falling behind the bench.
A sliding drawer under the bench, off to the side, with compartments to store all your most commonly used tools (eg, side cutters, needle noses). Btw, don't go overboard with things under the bench (eg, drawers, cupboards, etc) because they just get in the way of your legs.
I hope some of this has been helpful.
Tall Height Help (Score:2, Informative)
I recently built a work bench in the garage for multi purpose things and I set it fairly high up. So that if I'm standing at it with my elbows bent it feels confortable. I'd say about 2" - 4" below your elbow. Trust me, you dont want your back bent if your going to be standing there working.
A
About elbow height is good (Score:2)
Re:About elbow height is good (Score:1)
Electrics (Score:3, Insightful)
This way when (not if!!) things smoke you only have to slam that button down to switch it all off, rather than the find-the-right-powerboard-that-feeds-the-burning-
Oh, and a good residual current device (earth leakage) can save your life as well, so don't forget that.
Experience from Laboratory Construction (Score:2, Informative)
1) Ceiling/Lighting: A light colored ceiling will help with indirect lighting. A couple of coats of paint will make a HUGE difference in how you see things - literally. Use long, narrow light fixtures - fluorescent, cool white. The fixture should be over the benchtop with the outside edge of the fixture lined up with the outside edge of the benchtop.
2) Shelving. Use unistrut/
Re:Experience from Laboratory Construction (Score:1)
No, no, no. Data Cabling 101: Never run communications copper parallel (when its not separated by a considerable difference) to line voltage. Any throughput you might have had will be shot to hell from the EMI generated by the line voltage. If your data cabling must be near your power cabling, us
Re:Experience from Laboratory Construction (Score:1)
http://www.wiremold.com/www/commercial/products
5400 is good, but the ALA4800 is the stuff. The pre-wired stuff is great, too.
Re:Experience from Laboratory Construction (Score:1)
Considerations. (Score:4, Insightful)
Re:Considerations. (Score:1)
http://www.thejdscompany.com/Dust.htm
air filtration
http://www.thejdscompany.com/Airtech.
Re:Considerations. (Score:1)
Re:Considerations. (Score:1)
The National Electric Code (NEC) probably wants you to have your table saw, drill press, bandsaw,... on seperate circuits. Realistically, you just have your big equipment on whee
the kitchen table (Score:1)
We have an old huge Library Table for the "dining room" but it ALWAYS gets covered with projects.
hey, its comfortable.
I built one... (Score:1)
Worktop height varies on the person. (Score:1)
Don't Forget Ventilation... (Score:2, Informative)
Wrong group to ask (Score:1)
Recycled solid-core doors (Score:1, Informative)
This way you get the benefit of additional work space, while still being able to pack t
Ideas for a Multipurpose Garage Workshop? (Score:2)
Kitchen
Full Bath
Bedroom
Multipurpose Garage Workshop (Score:1)
Consider splitting up you work areas (Score:1)
For the electronics bench I'm using a hollow-core door and two trestles from Ikea. It's cheap and I can adjust the height to where I like it. (I'm tall, so I like most table tops higher than average.) I don't really
Re:Consider splitting up you work areas (Score:2)
I think I saw the magazine you're talking about; it was the recent "Tools & Shops" edition of Fine Woodworking. The problem I had with that design is that he had his tools resting on those rolling units, and open shelves and drawers on the side of them. No dust collection system is perfect, and that seems l
Re:Consider splitting up you work areas (Score:1)
As for the bench, I think that a rolling base is going to make cleaning up shaving and other junk a lot easier! I can just roll the whole thing to the side and grab the shop vac!
I like the
both sides (Score:2)